La Bella Toscana

By:  Jennifer Milano, written August 2015, updated April and October 2016, and June 2017

Arriving in Tuscany:  There are several options, the easiest of which is to fly into Pisa.  Pisa's airport is small and easy to navigate, and Delta flies nonstop from JFK to Pisa several days a week in summer.  From Pisa, you should rent a car and explore Tuscany (walk from the airport terminal to the car rental desks to avoid waiting in long lines - you'll arrive in advance of the passengers who wait for the shuttle).  Although driving in Italian cities is highly stressful, in the countryside you will be too limited without a car.  If the budget doesn't allow for a car, much of Tuscany is accessible by bus.  To explore beyond where you can get with a bus, try renting a motorbike or car for a day in a Tuscan town.

You can also fly into Florence, which I have not done because the flights are usually pricey, but I hear from friends that the airport is fairly painless.  The least expensive flight likely will be into Rome or Milan, Italy's two major airports.  From Rome, you can reach the Maremma region of Tuscany in about two hours. From Milan, you can reach northern Tuscany in about three hours, or take your time and hit the Italian Riviera on your way.  Other than distance from Tuscany, the major drawbacks of flying into Rome or Milan are navigating the huge airport, busy car rental counters, and traffic leaving the airport in your rental car.  Click here for my general tips on car rentals, and click here for my navigation tips for Italy.

Where to go:  How do you choose which part of Tuscany to see?  There are so many choices, but the good news is, you likely will love whichever area you select because virtually every spot in Tuscany is beautiful.  For something affordable yet still amazing, try Casa Cornacchi in Arezzo (see below for details from my friends Shannon and Rich).  For a splurge, head to Conti di San Bonifacio Wine Resort in Maremma (see below under "Maremma" for details).  Here are some of my favorite spots.  If you must be in Chianti, check out Villa Pecille (see below).

Florence

There is a reason why Florence is crowded with tourists and consistently rated among travelers' favorite cities worldwide.  Florence is like a beautiful jewel box.  The architecture of the buildings, the piazzas, the artwork, the food, the markets - all of it makes up for the crowds you will likely find as you make your way on foot through this walkable, compact city.

How to get here:  You can fly into Florence and take a bus or taxi (approximatley 20-30 minutes, depending on traffic) into the city center.  Florence's main train station, Santa Maria Novella, is in the city center.  A train between Florence and either Rome, Milan or Venice, takes only about two hours.  From Florence to Pisa is about an hour; to Lucca about an hour and a half; to the coast about two hours.  Florence's main bus terminal is near the train station, and you can take a bus to Chianti (an hour, see below), as well as to popular Siena and San Gimignano (an hour and fifteen minutes to two hours).

Where to stay: 

• On a trip to Florence with my husband, mother, four-year-old and seven-year-old, we stayed in an apartment at Palazzo Alfani al David, directly across the street from the Accademia.  The Palazzo is an old palace with several apartments that you can rent by the night.  In 2011, we paid only 50 Euros per person, per night.  Our 2-bedroom apartment had huge rooms with air-conditioning, and was very clean.  The drawbacks were that there was no housekeeping service, and rooms facing the street were noisy.  Also, beware if you valet park your car through the Palazzo.  The garage that the hotel uses took one hour to bring our car to us after we asked for it, and were told only ten minutes.  If we had had a flight or train to catch, we would have been in trouble.  When we complained, the garage employee gave me that apathetic shrug all Italian men must learn in preschool.  Otherwise, we were more than satisfied with our stay, and the owner was always available by cell phone for questions or suggestions.  Her restaurant recommendations were spot on. 
• On my most recent trip to Florence with my mother and ten-year-old, I followed my friend, Kristen's, advice and stayed at La Antica Torre di via Tornabuoni.  The views from the rooftop decks are incredible, breakfast is good, and the rooms are spacious and lovely.  We found the service to be professional yet friendly, and the location was central.  The rooms facing the street are a bit noisy, but this seems to be the case everywhere in central Florence.  For the Renaissance Suite (essentially two rooms and two bathrooms), we paid about 500 Euros per night. 

Where to eat: 

• Trattoria Mario on Via Rosina, 2r, near San Lorenzo.  Communal tables and delicious, well-priced pastas.  This small restaurant is now listed in many guide books, so be prepared to wait in line.  Get there before noon, when it opens.  If people are already waiting outside, go in and give your name.  They are only open for lunch, Monday-Saturday, and payment is by cash only.
• Il Gatto e La Volpe on Via Ghibellina (and near the Bargello) has really good pizzas and friendly service.
• Pugi is a wonderful bakery and focacceria on Piazza San Marco.  Try the pizza slices, focaccia and pastries.  I still remember one pastry that was light and flaky, filled with ham and cheese that melted in my mouth.
• Carabe on Via Ricasoli (on the way to the Accademia from the Duomo) has the best granita I have had anywhere.  Granita is a cross between a slushy and an American-style "italian ice" that you will see most often in machines at cafes or bars.  Carabe makes homemade granita.  The "albicocca" tastes like fresh, sweet apricots.  Carabe also has good gelato.  Also visit Gelateria La Carraia and Vivoli for good gelato.  Gelateria dei Neri and Perche No? also serve decent gelato, but not as good as those three places. Read my tips here on finding good gelato in Italy. 
• La Posta Ristorante was recommended to us by an Italian family.  It is fairly touristy, but has nice outdoor seating on a quiet street (Via de Lamberti 20r), near Piazza Signoria.  The pastas were good, but not fantastic.
• We liked, but did not love, La Casalinga (pesto and the "3P" dishes were very good, and the panzanella was good; the ribollita and tomato salad were bland).  It is inexpensive.
• We thought Vecchio Cancello was good, but not fantastic. 
• Cabiria on Piazza Santo Spirito in the Oltrarno (the other side of the Arno) was recommended to our friends, Harriet & Bob, by their Florentine walking tour guide.  Harriet & Bob loved their dinner of steak and potatoes on the charming piazza.
• Bar/Pizzeria San Firenze in Piazza San Firenze was recommended to me as a great spot for lunch.
• Trattoria Camillo was recommended recently by a Condé Nast Traveler writer as a hot spot for locals.  Click here for the article.
• Alla Vecchia Bettola was recommended recently by Condé Nast Traveler as an authentic osteria far from the tourists (in fact, it's a fifteen-minute cab ride across the Arno to get there from the city center).
• Cantinetta del Verrazzano makes homemade focaccia. 

What do see & do: 

• Walking Tour.  A nice way to be introduced to a new city is through a walking tour.  My friends, Harriet and Bob, liked their walking tour with ArtViva, finding the guide to be engaging with the kids and full of fascinating details about the city.  The guide also recommended good restaurants and gelaterias.
• The Duomo.  The Duomo cathedral complex is the center of Florence, and you will find yourself crossing the piazza between its various Renaissance buildings a number of times throughout your stay.  Climbing to the top of Brunelleschi's dome is fun, but if this feature is closed or you don't want to wait in the inevitably long line, opt for Giotto's Bell Tower climb, which will give you wonderful views of the dome.
• The Accademia Gallery.  This is where you will find Michelangelo's original statue of David.  The scale is magnificent, and that alone (along with sheer nudity), is enough to enthrall your children.  We brought a sketch pad and watched our children attempt to draw the statue.  Their running commentary as they sketched entertained not only us, but the other tourists, as well!  Buy your tickets in advance for this museum, so you can skip the line (which you may do at the official site at http://www.b-ticket.com/b-ticket/Uffizi/default.aspx, or ask your hotel to book for you).  You may still have to wait in a short line, so I suggest buying tickets for a morning time.  Then, before joining the line, walk to Piazza San Marco and choose pastries from Pugi bakery (http://www.focacceria-pugi.it/index_ing.asp) for your breakfast.  Enjoy your pastries in line, making the wait much sweeter!
• The Uffizi Gallery.  Florence's most famous art museum is filled with amazing works.  Buy your tickets in advance through your hotel, or here:  http://www.b-ticket.com/b-ticket/Uffizi/default.aspx
• National Museum of Bargello.  When I studied in Florence, my favorite class was an art history course.  Being in one of the world's greatest cities for art, we never sat in a classroom looking at meaningless slides.  Each morning, we would meet our Florentine professor at a different church or museum, where he would make the sculptures and paintings come alive.  Even though I know very little about art, and my ability to retain information in any subject area seems to grow more limited each year, I still recall the majority of what I learned in those months about Renaissance art and architecture.  My favorite museum in Florence?  The Bargello.  The museum is housed in an old palace that was once used as a prison, and has a beautiful courtyard.  It is filled with works by Michelangelo, Donatello, Brunelleschi, della Robbia, Ghiberti, and others.  And, there are no entrance lines.  A fun activity, especially for the kids, is to visit the Bargello and view the panels that were entered into a 1401 contest to see which artist would get to design the doors of the Bapistry at the Duomo - Brunelleschi or Ghiberti?  After you look at the panels, stroll down to the Duomo and look at the final product.  Can you figure out which artist won?  Although I've never needed advance tickets for this museum, they are available. Ask your hotel or purchase here:  http://www.b-ticket.com/b-ticket/Uffizi/default.aspx
• Basilica di San Lorenzo & San Lorenzo Market.  Florence is filled with beautiful churches, which contain their own famous works of art.  But my favorite is Basilica di San Lorenzo because of its harmonious, Renaissance design.  Be aware that in Italy, many churches (including the Duomo) will deny entrance if you do not follow the dress code.  To be safe, wear long pants and have your shoulders covered.  Florence is also known for its street markets, which you will find without looking very hard.  But the market in San Lorenzo is convenient and fun, and near one of my favorite lunch spots in Florence, called Trattoria Mario (see "Where to eat", ab0ve).
• People-watch in the piazzas.  My kids loved running around the Piazza della Signoria, where the Palazzo Vecchio and a replica of Michelangelo's "David" stand.  The original "David" was here from 1504 to 1873 before it was moved to The Accademia.  We parents loved sitting on a bench watching the kids play, while enjoying our daily gelato.
• For a view.  For a beautiful view of Florence, head up to Piazzale Michelangelo on a clear day.
• For a break.  If you or the kids desire some green space in which to run around or relax, visit the sculpture-filled Boboli Gardens at the Pitti Palace. 
• Stroll the Ponte Vecchio.  The old bridge crossing the Arno River is filled with jewelry shops and tourists, but is still a must-do while in Florence.  My kids liked pressing the buttons on the fountain that sits in about the middle of the bridge.
• Fiesole.  If you are not venturing into the Tuscan countryside from Florence, you can take an easy, 20-minute bus ride (bus #7 from Piazza San Marco, check with your hotel to confirm this is still current information) up to Fiesole, a town in the hills just outside of Florence.  Fiesole offers beautiful views and great restaurants.  Some travelers even choose to stay in Fiesole and travel into Florence to sightsee. 

Florence for kids:

Palazzo Vecchio has a guided tour geared toward children.  In a Conde Nast Traveler article about traveling to Florence with kids, I read about a tour company called Select Italy organizes children's boat tours on the Arno, pizza-making classes and fresco-painting classes (click here for the full article).  The guidebook "Italy with Kids" has good suggestions, and most general guide books have recommendations on child-friendly activities.  What did my kids like doing in Florence?  Stalking the poor pigeons around the piazza, sketching Michelangelo's David at The Accademia, and eating pizza, pasta and gelato!

Lucca

Just a 20-minute drive from Pisa's airport lies the pretty city of Lucca.  Lucca's main draw is its massive 16th century walls that surround the city, which are wide enough for you to walk, ride a bike or play on.  Lucca's pleasant streets and numerous cafes make it an enjoyable town to spend time just walking around, and stopping here and there for a drink or bite to eat.

How to get here:  Lucca is a 20-minute drive from Pisa's airport, and about an hour and a half train ride from Florence.

Where to stay: The San Luca Palace Hotel is perfect.  The extremely friendly staff welcomed us with a complimentary breakfast and early check-in after our transatlantic flight.  The spacious, quiet rooms are decorated in an old-world style, and perfectly appointed.  The hotel's location can't be beat, on a quiet side street in town, and within walking distance of everything.  Let the hotel park your car for you when you arrive, as driving in Lucca is difficult.

Where to eat:  If you walk out of the hotel, turn right and walk just a minute down the street - on the side of the road opposite of the hotel is a wonderful little bakery.  And the gelato at Gelateria Veneta was delicious!

What to do:  Wander Lucca's pretty little streets.  Walk or bicycle up on top of the wall.  Beware:  the walls are very wide, but there are no barriers on the edges.  Let the kids play on one of Lucca's many playgrounds or kick a soccer ball around one of the piazzas.  Stop at a cafe, sit outside, order something delicious and people-watch.

Pisa

We stopped in Pisa only to see the Leaning Tower, preferring to stay in nearby Lucca.  We followed the advice in Rick Steves's book to park at the Pietrasantina gas station parking lot, near the Pisa Nord exit from the autostrada, and take a bus to the Tower, which was easy and convenient.  The Tower is really crowded, as you can imagine, and surrounded by vendors selling tiny Tower replicas made in China.  You have to be 8 or older to climb to the top, and it is so crowded at the Tower you may be tempted to skip this site, but just viewing it from the outside is kind of obligatory if you are nearby.  It is fun to listen to the kids' reaction to it, and try to take a photo where it looks like you are holding up the Tower.  After you snap your photos, move on.

Chianti

The most popular Tuscan countryside area to visit is Chianti, and for good reason as it is covered with perfect little villages perched high up on hills, with a castle ruin sitting at the top of each like a cherry. 

How to get here:  The heart of Chianti is only an hour's drive from Florence.  You can reach the area by bus from Florence (one hour to Greve), although you will have more freedom to explore Chianti's many beautiful villages if you rent a car.  It is also a fun area to explore by motorbike.

Where to stay:  Vignamaggio, near Greve, is recommended by my friend, Mel, who stayed there on her honeymoon.  My friend, Kristen, loved Il Castello di Spaltenna, a 1000-year old castle with a church attached, and a really good restaurant, in Gaiole.  Kristen didn't love Gaiole because there was not a lot going on there.  I stayed in a nondescript guesthouse in Panzano.  I loved the town, and would return, possibly staying at Villa Pecille, a short walk from downtown Panzano, with a pool, a view and a laundry room.  I was in contact with this property's manager a few years ago, and learned that the villa is split into large apartments that families can rent, and the pool is shared among all of the apartments.  Normally the apartments are rented by the week, but the manager was willing to rent a four-bedroom apartment to us for two nights as there was a gap between stays.  The manager indicated that June and July tend to host American and British families, while August attracts mainly Italian families.  We were not able to work the stay into our trip, but the property sounded ideal to me and is on my short list.

Where to eat:  One of my favorite restaurants in all of Italy is Ristoro di Lamole, which sits at the top of the road that goes by Vignamaggio.  Sit outside and enjoy one of the best dishes of pasta you will ever eat.  My friend, Kristen, recommends Il Papavero, the only restaurant in the tiny town of Barbischo.  Il Papavero boasts succulent homemade pasta, chocolate cake and eggplant worth writing home about, all to be enjoyed with a view of an ancient tower and the hills of Chianti.

What to do:  Chianti is simply beautiful.  Drive and discover small villages with 12th century castle ruins, tiny cobblestone streets with little houses tucked along them, and views to die for.  If you can, rent a villa, or stay in a hotel or at a farm that has a pool with a view.  Sit outside with a book, but don't forget your camera because you will get up from your chair every ten minutes to snap more pictures, not quite believing that the view before you is real and you are there.  Make sure you find charming Volpaia, with its original stone architecture and off-the-beaten-track feel.  Our friends, Shannon and Rich, took their nine-year-old son to Chianti in July 2016 and took a ten-mile bike tour with i bike Italy, which was fun but not as scenic as they had hoped.  Shannon also recommends climbing towers with your kids!

What to read:  "Under the Tuscan Sun" and "Bella Tuscany" are two of the several books Frances Mayes has written about her life in Cortona, Italy.  Although Cortona is part of the Arezzo province of Tuscany, reading these novels before or during your trip to Chianti, or any part of Tuscany, will enhance your travel experience.

Maremma

In 1993, I was spending the summer living and working in Rome, and my boss took her daughter, Rossella, and me to their family apartment in the tiny village of Montemassi in the Maremma area of Tuscany.  The village was so small and devoid of tourists, that the villagers referred to me as "La Americana" all weekend.  The owner of the one small village shop opened up his store for me on a Sunday so I could buy a 1940's black-and-white postcard of the village, claiming it was the only postcard made of the town.  On my first evening in Montemassi, Rossella walked me up to the 11th century crumbling castle, which we had to ourselves at sunset.  We sat on the ancient stone castle wall, taking in the spectacular and expansive 360 degree view of the valley.  I remarked to Rossella just how amazing it all was.  "Perche?" she asked me.  I tried to explain in Italian that for an American, sitting in a castle atop a medieval village that was centuries older than any structure in my country was special.  She smiled, but I could tell she didn't understand my sense of wonder.  After all, she grew up in a city that had two thousand year-old ruins around the corner from her favorite shops.

The next morning, I woke up and walked over to the bedroom window.  I unlatched the green wooden shutters, and pushed them open.  I think I heard the vibrato of opera singing in my head, and I'm sure my mouth was hanging open in amazement as I viewed the Tuscan countryside below.  I was hooked.  For life.

It took me several return trips to Italy and until 2011 before I returned to Maremma, and to Montemassi.  There is now a sign at the town's entrance welcoming tourists with information about the castle and village.  Part of the castle has been restored, and there are a few cafes and shops.  But Montemassi's charm remains.  We had the castle to ourselves, where my children could play pretend knights and invaders.  The winding stone streets were, but for the occasional resident, mostly empty, and we could marvel at the little doorways and entrances to people's well-kept homes.  The views are the same ones I recall from 1993.  Montemassi's charm pulled us back there in 2014, and it was still a blissful retreat from the popular Tuscan hilltop villages, a place where the residents walk about, sit outside and pass the time.

How to get here:  You need a car.  Other than getting lost, driving in Maremma is not particularly stressful as its roads are not busy.  The southern part of Maremma can be reached from Rome in about two hours.  The northern part of Maremma can be reached from Pisa in about an hour, and in about two hours from Florence.  It is a fairly large area of Tuscany, and includes picture-perfect villages, as well as the most beautiful stretches of sandy beach on Italy's west coast.

Where to stay:  We loved the Conti di San Bonifacio Wine Resort, a gorgeous vineyard just an hour and a half from Pisa's airport, and fifteen minutes from Montemassi.  The wonderful owners, Sarah & Manfredo (who are the Countess and Count of San Bonifacio), restored a large stone building to perfection, adding a beautiful swimming pool from which you can take in the spectacular view.  At dinner time, staff will set up a table on the lawn wherever you like, and serve you delicious Tuscan cuisine and the resort's own organic wine, while you watch the Tuscan sun set.  While children are very welcome, guests tend to be young, trendy couples from London. 

We also stayed at Agriturismo Montebelli, a vineyard in the heart of the Maremma.  While we loved that our children could play with Italian kids in the spacious pool, ride horses around the property, and serve dessert to guests alongside the other children in a communal dining atmosphere, we would not return.  There are no views to speak of, and the rooms in the air-conditioned part of the property where we stayed were sterile and charmless.

On the coast, we stayed in Porto Ercole, a lively port town on the Monte Argentario, a small peninsula that juts out into the Mediterranean Sea just two hours north of Rome.  Our hotel, Hotel Don Pedro, was not particularly special, but was very clean, affordable and well-located as we could walk to town or the beach in ten minutes.  There was no pool.  Ask for a room with a balcony facing the town. For something more upscale in this area, try Hotel El Pellicano or Hotel Torre di Cala Piccola. 

If you are looking for an apartment rental in a fun, beach side town, Castiglione della Pescaia is a great choice.  The tourists, who are primarily Italians, spend their days at the beach and evenings strolling about the town. We spent several days here at the beach, taking day trips from Conti di San Bonifacio.  Choose a beach club (we liked both Arco Baleno and the one by the red lighthouse closer to town), and spend the day playing in the sand and sea.  The best part about Italian beach days?  No rubbery burger and greasy fries...instead, you will sit down to a gorgeous lunch of fresh pasta and seafood! 

Where to eat: 

• Pizza in the back of the bar in Ribolla.  Sarah & Manfredo took us to a nondescript bar in the center of Ribolla, and in the back you can sit in a booth and eat the most delicious fresh pizzas.  Try the arugula one, which I've been trying to recreate at home for the past four years.
• Il Gatto e la Volpe.  Drive to Massa Marittima for the evening, and eat dinner at Il Gatto e la Volpe.  The pastas are all amazing, but the one that made me return to this restaurant three years after my first meal here was the cinghiale (wild boar sauce) - yum!  Note that after dark, it can be hard to find your way out of Massa Marittima and back to wherever you are staying.  Pay attention on your drive into town, and note where you park (we often take a photo of the street on which we park, so if we get lost we can ask a local how to find that road).
• Osteria del Ceccottino.  If you are in Pitigliano (and you should aim to find yourself here at some point during your Maremma adventure), sit outside on the piazza at this little restaurant, which serves delicious local cuisine.
• Gambero Rosso.  In Porto Ercole, we had several mediocre meals, but our best one was at Gambero Rosso.
• The beach club by the little red lighthouse.  If you are in Castiglione della Pescaia, have lunch at the restaurant of the beach club by the little red lighthouse (you will see it when you are in town, or ask someone).  Everything we had - the arugula salad, the spaghetti alle vongole, the pizzas - was scrumptious.
• Sassone.  We took a horseback ride (see below) to Sassone, a lovely vineyard near Conti di San Bonifacio Wine Resort.  The friendly owners joined us for a private lunch on the terrace, with that simply-prepared yet absolutely delicious cuisine for which Tuscany is famous.  After a leisurely lunch, the owners will take you on a tour of their pretty vineyard.

What to do:

• Village-hop.  Take your car and explore the beautiful little villages of the Maremma region.  If you've read my introduction to Maremma, you'll know that Montemassi is relatively undiscovered, and a favorite of mine for its beauty, views, castle and overall authenticity.  We also loved jaw-droppingly beautiful Pitigliano, as well as picture-perfect Pienza.  Massa Marittima is one of the larger hilltop villages in the area, and has conveniences like banks and shops.  The village is touristy, but picturesque and lively.  For restaurant recommendations in these villages, see "Where to eat," above.
• Visit a medieval castle.  We love the castle in Montemassi, because you can sit in solitude on top of the ruins, taking in the spectacular 360 degree views, and your children can climb and play to their hearts' desire.  We also visited the castle at Scansano, which requires buying an entrance ticket and taking a guided tour.  Although the castle has classic medieval features, and we were the only ones visiting at the time, my children were pretty bored by the lackluster tour.  If you arrive and it looks as if it is closed (because there is a big, locked gate greeting you), walk around to the other side of the castle to find the entrance.  It took us about 20 minutes to figure that out.
• Take a trail ride.  Chiara at Centro Ippico (centroippicocm@live.it) is a lovely person who will take you and/or your children on a trail ride, or give a riding lesson in her outdoor ring.  On our first trip, Chiara gave our kids a riding lesson, and then spontaneously invited us to join her and a group of Italians for lunch at a local restaurant.  The meal was one of the our favorite memories of the trip - not just for the plentiful, delicious food, but mainly for the company of a group of friendly Italians happy to spend the afternoon eating and drinking at a long table filled with new friends.  On our second trip, Chiara took our daughter on a trail ride, and we (preferring not to ride), met them at Sassone, a vineyard with a restaurant, for lunch.  The warm and friendly owners of Sassone joined us at a table on their terrace for a memorable, delicious lunch, followed by a tour of their vineyard.  Sassone has rooms for overnight stays, as well.
• Stop the car.  Some of our favorite corners of Maremma were not in any guide book (in fact, if you search for guide books on Maremma, or even within Tuscany guide books, you will find little written about the area).  One morning, we came across Lago dell'Accesa.  If we knew the color of the water was going to match the Caribbean Sea, we would have brought our bathing suits!  Continuing on, just down the road we came to a massive field filled with sunflowers in bloom.  We stopped the car again.

• Hit the beach.  The beaches on and near Monte Argentario are pretty.  The little beaches near Porto Ercole are somewhat rocky, but are beautiful and have tide pools for the kids.  The walk down to the beach (and back up!) is steep, but if you stay at Don Pedro the hotel will reserve chairs for you at the beach, and shuttle you back and forth.  Feniglia beach is great for the kids because it is long and sandy, with shallow water.  There are little paddle boats with slides coming off of them moored in the water, and in typical Italian-fashion, no one cares if your kids play on them without renting the boats.  The water at Feniglia was not as clean as other Tuscan beaches, though. 

The beaches at Castiglione della Pescaia are clean and wonderful for families.  We liked the beach club called Arco Baleno on Viale Puccini (walk through Bagno Cannucce to reach Arco Baleno), on the quieter end of Castiglione.  To be in the heart of the action, choose the beach club by the little red lighthouse in town.  The restaurant is particularly good, and there is a sandy beach, rocks for the kids to go crab-hunting, beach toys and a playground. 

Arguably the most beautiful beach in Maremma, if not all of Tuscany and perhaps even Italy itself, is Cala Violina, outside of Follonica.  The last time I explored this section of Maremma's coastline was over twenty years ago, but I recall parking, then walking about 15-20 minutes through a forest to a gorgeous stretch of sandy beach and crystal clear water.  There were no beach clubs, so no chairs or umbrellas (not the most convenient with children).  You can also try Marina di Alberese beach in the Parco Naturale della Maremma.  Since it is in a natural reserve, it is spotless and you can visit the rest of the park where there are walking paths and wild animals.  Research admittance requirements before you leave, as during high season there are restrictions and you may need to reserve in advance.  If you are just going to the beach there, arrive early as the parking lot fills up in the height of summer.  Punta Ala is also supposed to have beautiful beaches.

Arezzo

My friends, Shannon and Rich, took their nine-year-old son on his first trip to Italy in the summer of 2016, and they found a fabulous place to stay.  Casa Cornacchi in the small town of Bucine is affordable, family-friendly (rooms can fit a family of four or five), with air-conditioning, a swimming pool, amazing views and extremely helpful owners.  The included breakfast was amazing, and lunch and dinner are available as options.  Shannon and Rich felt the location was a perfect base for exploring Tuscany.  Sienna is about 20 minutes away, and Florence is about an hour.  There were lots of kids from all around the world staying when Shannon and Rich were there, meaning their son had several playmates to kick a soccer ball with in between dinner courses on the outdoor terrace.  Shannon advises you book well in advance as Casa Cornacchi is often reserved for weddings.  Shannon and Rich also loved their nearby cooking class at Castello di Gargonza (for you non-Italian speakers, that means it's in a castle!).  Shannon said the instructors were fantastic and their nine-year-old son loved the class, too.  Click here for more information.  

Next time:  I will revisit Siena, where I haven't been since the day the Palio was rained out in 1992.  My friend, Kristen, recommends eating lunch at Il Taverno di San Giuseppe, which has amazing homemade pasta.  Across from the Basilica of San Domenico is a gelateria that Kristen said was the best of her ten-day trip to Italy. 

I would also like to see Cortona, and take my family to the island of Elba, where I went with my friend, Susan, in 1993.  Elba has gorgeous beaches and a relaxed, non-touristy atmosphere.  Click here to read more about Elba.

As for Maremma, one village near Monte Argentario that we missed, but I have a feeling is a beautiful little gem, is Talamone.  I will revisit Cala Violina and explore the natural park.  And on every trip to Maremma and in between those trips, my husband and I will continue dream about buying a stone house with a terrace and a view in which to spend our golden years!

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