The Italian Riviera & The Cinque Terre

By:  Jennifer Milano, written August 2015, updated October 2016 and June 2017

Hiking at least some of the coastal path that winds through the five villages of the Cinque Terre should be on everyone's bucket list.  When I walked it in 1993 and again in 2002, it was blissful.  I wore my bathing suit under my clothes and jumped off of the rocks into the sea when I felt like it.  I stopped for a leisurely seafood lunch in Manarola at Marina Piccola (Via Discovolo 92), overlooking the water.  I stayed in Vernazza, the most adorable town of the five in my opinion (and which has been rebuilt since the 2011 devastating flood).  Vernazza's piazza sits right on the water, and is flanked by restaurants ready to serve you a bowl of linguine and clams al fresco.  I returned to the Cinque Terre in June 2017 with my son and my mother to find that while the scenery and food remain unchanged, the crowds have increased dramatically.  There is now an admission price to walk the path, which can be crowded.  Plan to walk early in the morning, before the crowds and heat mar your enjoyment of the spectacular views.  Also, check the park's website for updates as many sections of the trails remain closed from the 2011 landslides and flood: http://www.parks.it/parco.nazionale.cinque.terre/Eindex.php.  

While on my first two trips I stayed in Riomaggiore and Vernazza, two of the Cinque Terre towns, in 2017 I chose to stay in Levanto.  Levanto is only one town away from the first of the Cinque Terre towns, Monterosso, and is connected by train to the five towns.  Levanto's beach is not great, but there are nearby bike/pedestrian paths that go through tunnels to towns with better beaches, like Bonassola.  If you stay at Villa Valentina, you will have complimentary bikes (but no helmets) and the owners can point you in the right direction.  Our friends, Shannon and Rich stayed at Villa Valentina in 2016 and enjoyed it, so we decided to follow suit. Villa Valentina's rooms are lovely, clean and updated, and the breakfast is amazing. Owner Angelo runs a great full day boat tour with stops for swimming.  But co-owner Paula, and her daughter, made us feel like we were a bother when we had a question or an issue, such as when my mom locked herself out of her room safe.  Moreover, the communication regarding our dinner reservations was less than stellar.  I recommend you book your own reservations, and not rely on the hotel.  Also, note that the location of the hotel is at least a 20-30 minute walk to town.  There is a complimentary shuttle to the train station in the mornings, but on the way home you'll have to walk (uphill) or call a taxi.  Here are our tips if you are staying in Levanto (for all restaurants, book tables in advance):

• Eat dinner at Osteria Tumelin - order the trofie al pesto, and a locally-caught fish baked in the oven with roasted tomatoes and potatoes.  This was our best dinner of the trip. 
• Get pizza at La Picea, which is some of the best I've ever had.  Both the margherita and the arugula were scrumptious, and the focaccia is to die for.
• Try to get a table at Antiga Ustaia Zita.  We wanted to eat here but Villa Valentina could not get us a table.
• Avoid L'Antica Abeteia Ristorante - it was expensive and of poor quality.
• L'Articiocca had excellent shrimp ravioli and nice service, but the fish and pesto were not great.
• Use Gianluca or Mirko for taxis - text or call 39-335-8259532 or 39-338-2366355.
• Get gelato multiple times at Gelateria Basilico e Limone.  Try the lampone (raspberry) if they have it!  The gelato here is much better than at Gelateria il Porticciolo.
• Bike or walk the well-marked tunnel paths to Bonassola. Rent a chair and umbrella for the day and swim in the sea.  Walk a five minutes to Focacceria da Marisa, for take-away focaccia that is pretty good, and definitely have gelato at Gelateria U'Pertusu, located almost across the road from Marisa.  Don't let the unfriendly server deter you - the gelato is fabulous.
• The beach in Monterosso is better than in Levanto, and only one train stop away.  Although you'll find fewer crowds in Bonassola, Monterosso is convenient if you need a swim while exploring the Cinque Terre.

In Manarola, eat lunch or dinner at Trattoria dal Billy, which is excellent and worth the climb through Manarola's charming streets.  I've also enjoyed meals overlooking the water at Marina Piccola.  The gelato at 5 Terre is good.

In Vernazza, try lunch or dinner at [insert two places on piazza].  These spots are touristy, but it's worth having a meal on Vernazza's perfect piazza.  

Although it is possible to drive to the outskirts of the villages, because of the steep, winding roads and parking restrictions, I strongly recommend taking the train.  Trains stop in all five of the towns, and you can either walk, take the train, or hop on a ferry in between villages.  If you don't want to stay overnight in one of the villages, you can day trip to the Cinque Terre from many nearby towns.  About an hour's train ride to the Cinque Terre, Santa Margherita Ligure is a pretty seaside town with lots of hotels, and more importantly, lots of focaccerias and gelaterias.  I also like Camogli, a colorful fishing village located about an hour north of the Cinque Terre.  My husband still remembers the granita he had in Camogli as we walked its main street along the sea.  For a recent Conde Nast Traveler article on Camogli, click here.  For a more upscale stay, check out posh Portofino, accessible by bus or boat from Santa Margherita Ligure, or by car.  Portofino is beautiful, but for me, lacks authenticity of a genuine Italian coastal village.  Finally, take a ferry from Levanto or any of Cinque Terre's villages (except for Corniglia) to Portovenere, arguably the riviera's most scenic town.  As your ferry docks, notice the narrow houses along the oceanfront, built with small windows and without balconies to deter attackers from long ago.  Stroll up the main drag and stop at Bajeico la Bodega di Pesto for a taste of pesto on bread or focaccia.  Explore the old church overlooking the water and if it's open (it wasn't when we were there), try lunch at Un Mare di Sapore.  If you get to Portovenere early enough (we didn't), try the focaccia at Nicla, which is supposed to be the absolute best.

My friend, Kristen, loved the seaside town of Sestri Levante, set on a perfect half-moon bay and filled with Italian families enjoying the beach.  Here are Kristen's tips for Sestri Levante, should you wish to spend some time off-the-American-beaten path: 

• Hotel Helvetia boasts great views, pool, breakfast and location. 
• Il Polpino serves five courses of testaroli pasta, a regional specialty.
• Portobello offers delicious seafood right on the beach.
• Tosi Panificio's focaccia is delicious.
• Gelato 100% Naturale deserves several visits throughout your stay.
• You can easily take the train from this town to Cinque Terre's towns.
• You can take a boat ride from this town to Portofino. 

In addition to seafood, this region of Italy is known for its focaccia and its pesto, so make sure you try both!

Finally, consider reading the book "Beautiful Ruins," by Jess Walter, which takes place along the Italian riviera.  Although the tiny village in the novel is fictional, the book captures the romance and magic of the region.

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