The Spectacular Amalfi Coast

By:  Jennifer Milano, written August 2015

On my first visit to Amalfi about 25 years ago, I recall my parents checking us into the Hotel Luna Convento.  "Milano!" the front desk clerk exclaimed.  "You must be from Amalfi!"  "We are," my dad replied, clearly pleased by the recognition.  As our visit to the town cemetery to find our ancestors' graves confirmed, "Milano" is an extremely common name in the town of Amalfi.  (We came home and developed film into a stack of about 100 photos of gravestones, hoping my Great Aunt Phil could determine which ones belonged to our relatives.)  Amalfi, on the other hand, is anything but commonplace.  I don't think my heritage affects my opinion that Amalfi is one of the most beautiful towns in the world.  And its beauty is no secret - the town is full of tourists.  My advice?  Stay here for a few nights.  In the evenings when the day-trippers disappear, stroll into town for a gelato and a passeggiata.  Spend your days leaping into the Mediterranean Sea.  Sit and enjoy truly breathtaking views of the undulating cliffs dropping into the Sea.

How to get here:  If you are coming from the north and want to avoid driving from Rome, take a train to Naples (about two hours) or to Sorrento (another 30 minutes from Naples).  You can also fly to Naples - in high season, check out Meridiana Airlines, which flies nonstop from New York to Naples.  From there, you have three options:  bus, car or ferry.  The roads are winding, and while sitting in the back of a bus may be inexpensive, it is also nauseating.  If you can afford it and are a confident driver, rent a car.  If the budget permits, hire a car and driver for a stress-free ride.  It will take you about an hour and a half to drive from Naples to Positano, and another 15 or 20 minutes further south to Amalfi.  The ferry runs from Naples to Sorrento and takes about 30 minutes.  Note that the ferry terminal is not close to the train station, and you likely will need a taxi between the two.  While having a car to get to the Amalfi coast is convenient, you may wish to leave it in the garage during your stay as parking in the towns can be frustrating.  You can take a boat or bus from Amalfi to Positano, or arrange a taxi through your hotel.

When to go, where to go and what to do:  If possible, visit the Amalfi Coast in May, June, September or October.  Summer is also lovely, just more crowded.  September can also be busy, but is ideal because the sea is still warm and the air is starting to cool just slightly.  Amalfi is my favorite town on the coast, because despite its popularity, it feels like a cohesive, authentic village.  Positano is also beautiful and warrants a visit, but has a more upscale, pretentious vibe.  I also love Ravello, located about 20 minutes from Amalfi, for its beautiful views of the coast and its charming feel.  In my opinion, Sorrento is not worth visiting unless you are looking for an inexpensive place to stay near Amalfi. 

Between Naples and the Amalfi coast, Pompeii is a truly amazing archeological and historical site.  If you want a similar experience to Pompeii but fewer crowds, visit nearby Heraculaneum ("Ercolano" in Italian), recommended by my friend, Kristen.  An avid reader, Kristen recommends reading Pompeii by Robert Harris while in the area.  For both Pompeii and Heraculaneum, click here to purchase tickets online via the official site. 

As beautiful as the coast is from land, take a boat trip to appreciate it from the sea.  The most popular trip is to the grottos.  You can also take a boat to popular Capri, or less popular Ischia.  In my opinion, Capri is the more beautiful but better enjoyed in the evening after the day-trippers depart.  If you want to see Capri, stay overnight.  When I return to Capri, I plan to stay in Anacapri, the town at the top of the island.  Click here to read more about Italy's islands.

Where to stay:  In Amalfi, I stayed at Hotel Luna Convento, which is less expensive than the ultra-luxurious, but amazing, Hotel Santa Caterina.  Luna Convento is an old convent converted to a hotel, with a lovely courtyard, private parking, a good restaurant with a view, and a beautiful swimming pool right by the sea.  It is only about a ten-minute walk into the center of town.  While I have not been to this hotel in many years, my friend, Kristen, recently stayed at Luna Convento and loved it.  Her only criticisms were that the pool closed at 6:00 pm (even in the height of summer), and that on several occasions the hotel concierge steered them wrong.  Hotel Santa Caterina is located just outside of Amalfi.  While I have never had the pleasure of staying there, both my friend, Pauline, and my parents, report it is wonderful.  The seaside restaurant and main restaurant are fabulous, serving vegetables grown by the hotel.  Musicians perform on the balcony at dusk.  In Positano, friends have reported that Hotel Il San Pietro di Positano and Le Sirenuse Hotel are both amazing.  In Ravello, Palazzo Sasso is supposed to be incredible.  My friend, Pauline, stayed at Villa Cimbrone in Ravello, which has beautiful gardens and stunning views of the coast.  The hotel is lacking a pool and restaurant, but is priced accordingly. 

Where to eat:  My friend, Pauline, recommends the seafood restaurant at Hotel Santa Caterina.  Amalfi is famous for its oversized, amazing lemons, and you will see them everywhere.  Make sure you try a lemon granita (a true Italian ice) while in Amalfi.  In Ravello, Pauline suggests Cumpa' Cosimo, a simple Italian restaurant serving fantastic food cooked by the Italian grandmother you wish you had!

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