Scotland

By Jennifer Milano, traveled July 2023

My first time in Scotland was with my husband and our baby daughter in tow. We spent a few gorgeous September days wandering Edinburgh’s ancient streets, and then drove up to the Scottish Highlands and Loch Ness to hike and relax. It was so beautiful we were sure we’d be back soon, but it took 21 years for us to return. This time, I traveled with my husband and 18-year-old son, who was considering attending The University of St Andrews. After a couple of days in beautiful St Andrews, we stayed in Edinburgh and, like everyone else I’ve met who has visited, loved our time in this magical city.

St Andrews, Scotland

We adored our airbnb, located near the world-famous golf course and within a few minutes’ walk to the heart of town.
Golf. Explore the adorable main streets in St Andrews. Walk along the coast and West Sands Beach, and check out the ruins of St Andrews Castle and the cathedral. Once you are in St Andrews, you don’t need a car. We hired St. Andrews Shuttle to drive us to/from Edinburgh airport, or you can take a bus.
We didn’t have time, but would have loved to walk the St Andrews section of the Fife Coastal Path.
Our meals at Forgan’s and The Adamson were decent, but friends who spend a lot of time in St. Andrews recommend The Steak Barn and TailEnd.
Jannetta’s has good gelato.
In case anyone is wondering, my son enrolled at St Andrews, but then got off the waitlist at one of his top choice schools in the U.S. so ended up not attending.

Edinburgh

Where to Stay in Edinburgh (or not to stay…)

We stayed at Wilde Aparthotels Grassmarket, because it was reasonably priced for two bedrooms and it has self-service laundry facilities (which ended up being popular and expensive). The property is well-located, but basic and sterile. I would search for a different property next time.

Where to Eat in Edinburgh:

The Scran & Scallie was recommended to us by our Scottish friend, Harriet, and was our favorite meal in Edinburgh. This gastropub offers upgraded classic Scottish mains, and incredible desserts. My husband loved his steak pie, and my fish and chips was also very good.
Lannan is an awesome bakery in Stockbridge, and worth the wait in line!
Clarinda’s Tea Room is the perfect spot to relax over a cuppa and a homemade scone after your descent from St. Arthur’s Seat.
Coates Cafe on Haymarket Terrace is a good place for breakfast. Thanks for the tip, Harriet!
Civerino’s Slice has seriously good pizza near the University of Edinburgh.

What to Do in Edinburgh

Hike up Arthur’s Seat, an extinct volcano in Holyrood Park, which took us about an hour roundtrip and worked up our appetite for tea at Clarinda’s Tea Room afterwards. Beautiful views!
Walk up The Royal Mile, Edinburgh’s High Street, which is lined with old stone buildings reminiscent of Harry Potter. Edinburgh Castle is at one end of the street. We did not go inside.
Check out the monument to Greyfriars Bobby in the churchyard, then walk down Candlemaker Row into the Grassmarket, then back up West Bow and Victoria Street on the other side. It’s one of the oldest and most picturesque parts of the city.
If you are in Stockbridge (and you should find yourself here at some point if you follow my recommendation to go to Lannan Bakery), wander along St. Stephen’s Street and Circus Lane.