SAN FRANCISCO AND THE BAY AREA

Written by Jennifer Milano, October 2016

When the school calendar showed days off on a Monday and Wednesday in the same October week, my happy travel bells started ringing.  By missing only one day of school, we could take a five-day getaway.  Using google's flight tool, I researched fares, and narrowed our choices to two - London for $500 roundtrip or San Francisco for $340.  We had friends in both places, the kids had never seen either city (except for my daughter in a stroller in London twelve years ago) and October was perfect weather-wise for both destinations.  Based on sheer number of good friends we hadn't seen in a long time, we booked Virgin America from Newark to San Francisco and started texting people to expect us in October.  We scheduled a whirlwind five days, planning to see six families and the city of San Francisco, too!

October arrived, we dreaded the Friday afternoon drive to Newark, but all went well and our first Virgin America flight (rated by several sources as our country's favorite domestic airline) was on time and problem-free.  Well, almost problem-free.  My son's entertainment screens stopped working an hour into the flight and the crew couldn't fix it.  But instead of an apathetic shrug from the flight attendant, we got a sincere apology, free food, complimentary movies for our other three screens and a $25.00 voucher for a future flight.  Take that, Delta.  After landing at SFO, we took a taxi to the Sheraton Fisherman's Wharf, where my college roommates and I had decided to reunite.  As I had to explain to my children, living in the expansive and traffic-y "Bay Area" could mean you are an hour or two away from your friends who also live in the Bay Area.  I used my Starwood Preferred Guest Points for two free nights, and my Gold Status for an upgrade from a poor room to a mediocre room and a late check-out.  We dropped our bags, immediately crashed and looked forward to our first morning in San Francisco.

Because of the time change, we woke up early and took advantage of having the sunny, quiet city to ourselves while everyone else slept.  We walked a few blocks to the Hollywood Café and got the last table for four before the long line formed.  Breakfast was good (not worth waiting in a long line for, though), and then we decided to get the obligatory touristy stuff out of the way before meeting my roommates and their families.  Cable car ride, photos of the kids hanging onto the poles on the outside of the cable car, a walk down Lombard Street ("the crookedest street in San Francisco") and were back at our hotel by 9:30 to find my college roommate, Jen, and her daughter in the lobby waiting for us.  We were so excited to see each other!

The six of us set out to explore Fisherman's Wharf on the way to Ghiradelli Square.  The highlight for my kids?  A candy store with giant-sized Twizzlers and two-pound Reeses Peanut Butter Cups.  At Ghiradelli Square, more candy and chocolate - there are at least four chocolate shops, three of which have ice-cream bars.  And hiding in between all of the chocolate and sweets is a tiny, organic juice bar where my husband and I got our fix.

Back at the hotel before lunch, we met my college roommate, Val, her husband, Indro, and their four kids.  It had been twelve years since we had seen each other, and we had never met each other's youngest child - it was so much fun to all be together again!  We went to Carmel Pizza for lunch, having called ahead to ask for a patio table for twelve.  The pizza, rated highly online, was thin-crust and made with fresh farm ingredients. Delicious!  The grown-ups chatted nonstop, while the kids, having just met each other, sat around their table quietly eating their pizza and looking uncomfortable.  (By dinnertime, they couldn't stop talking to each other, becoming fast friends, as kids always seem to do.)  

Our reunion happened to coincide with Fleet Week, meaning immense crowds in Fisherman's Wharf, but also fun activities like the Blue Angels air show.  We spread a blanket on the lawn between Ghiradelli Square and the water, and watched the planes perform their incredible stunts.  After the show, it was back to Ghiradelli Square for ice-cream, then the hotel for swim and hang-out time.  

For dinner, we walked to North Beach, the Italian section of the city, and ate fresh oysters and tasty cioppino topped with classic San Francisco crab at Sotto Mare Oysteria & Seafood Restaurant.  After dinner, the kids found the world's best playground (Joe Dimaggio Playground at 651 Lombard Street), capping off a perfect day.

On Sunday morning, we met early and grabbed quick breakfast from the café in the hotel lobby before heading to Blazing Saddles, a bike rental company a few blocks away.  The staff efficiently outfitted our large group with helmets, bikes, locks and maps and we were off on the bike path to the Golden Gate Bridge!  We biked along the waterfront, and just as we reached the bridge, the fog rolled in, creating an iconic San Francisco scene:

Then, amazingly, as we biked up onto the bridge, the fog rolled out so we had clear views of the bay and city.  We couldn't have scripted it any better!  The bridge was crowded with local cyclists yelling at us to get out of the way or passing us at top speed, but we didn't let that ruin a perfect morning bike ride.  On the other side of the bridge, it is about a thirty-minute hilly ride into Sausalito, an adorable small town with a cute main street filled with shops and restaurants.

While I'm a Type A planner by nature, and especially when with a group of twelve people in a crowded city, we had decided to wing it for lunch.  We walked into the first restaurant we saw, a Mexican place called Copita.  They had a large table in back to accommodate us, and the food was outstanding.  (I should be spontaneous more often.)  After lunch, the kids found a store that sold tiny erasers in various shapes that kept them occupied until the ferry arrived, taking us back across the bay to San Francisco.  And as luck would have it, another air show entertained us on the ferry ride, and we had an unobstructed view.

We all hugged goodbye in the hotel lobby, promising not to let another twelve years pass before reuniting, and while my roommates headed home, we took our first - yes first - Uber ride to our friends' house in Burlingame.  Relaxing with our friends, Jason and Grace, in their cozy living room while the kids all played upstairs was just what we needed after our bike ride, and we had a great dinner at Il Fornaio in Burlingame. The vodka sauce was an 8 out of 10 for me.  Our breakfast the next morning at Crepe Vine was excellent - better than Hollywood Café - although the portions are massive.  Burlingame has a really cute downtown, and a nearby playground that the kids loved.  We had so much fun catching up with Jason, Grace and their adorable kids!

Our next stop was Portola Valley, home of our friends Julia, Rob and their two boys.  Julia took us for a hike through the woods to a viewpoint.  After hearing so much about Silicon Valley, I had pictured dense development, corporate cookie-cutter buildings, and expensive organic grocery stores.  In the Portola Valley area, I found only the latter.  There were horses and open space, and it was so much more beautiful than I expected.  For dinner, Julia and Rob took us to Half Moon Bay, where we dined at the more casual of the Ritz Carlton's restaurants, The Conservatory.  We had a spectacular view of the ocean waves crashing against the shore, cliffs dropping down into the Pacific.  The food was fabulous.  The company was the best.

On the way back to Portola Valley, we stopped to visit Andrew, Eunice and their two kids in Los Altos.  Our kids sat outside roasting marshmallows in the fire pit while the grown-ups caught up on years of conversation in an hour.  After exchanging hugs, we retreated to our cozy guest room at Julia and Rob's house.  The next morning, Julia took us to breakfast at Buck's in Woodside, an eclectic diner where apparently many of the big deals in Silicon Valley go down.  Not being movers and shakers ourselves, we focused on the fluffy omelettes, homemade pancakes and bacon (to our delight, we were asked if we wanted it crispy or chewy - does anyone ever choose chewy?).  If you are in the area, Buck's is worth a stop for breakfast or lunch.

With all of our friends in school or at work, our family of four drove back into San Francisco to Golden Gate Park.  We explored the Japanese Tea Garden, which is pretty and peaceful (although not as impressive as the Japenese Garden in Seattle).  The kids hit the playground.  And then we Ubered (it only took two rides before I began using Uber as a verb) to Ferry Building Marketplace. After our third $9.00 organic juice of the trip, we explored the market, snacking along the way on average to above-average tamales, clam chowder, grilled cheese and cupcakes!  We walked from there along the water about one mile to Fisherman's Wharf, where our weekend had begun.  The kids wanted to see Pier 39, which had always been too crowded during the weekend.  Pier 39 is an open-air touristy collection of shops, restaurants and amusements like a carousel and arcade.  It is fun for the kids, but not worth going out of your way for otherwise.

On our last night in San Francisco, we met our cousin for dinner near her home in San Bruno.  We had awesome Indian food at The Third Eye in Millbrae, then slept at a Best Western near the airport.  After spending $70.00 (!) on organic breakfast and snacks for the plane, we flew home without any snafus.  We were amazed that in just four days, we had flown across the country, seen so much of the city and the Bay Area, and spent quality time with so many good friends.  The weather was perfect.  We loved that there was fresh, local, organic produce everywhere we looked.  But although we had lots of pleas from our friends to move out to the west coast, we were happy to come home to the changing New England fall leaves and reasonable prices.  But the next long weekend we get, we may just jet back out to the left coast! 

When to Go and How to Get to and around the Bay Area:

San Francisco's weather is mild year-round, but can vary greatly between city and suburbs.  We lucked out in October and had no rain, few clouds, and only a tiny bit of fog just when we wanted to photograph the Golden Gate Bridge.  It was warm and sunny, but pack a fleece or down jacket for cool evenings.

San Francisco's airport is modern and easy to navigate.  From the airport, it costs $60.00 by taxi to the city center.  If you are staying only in the city, renting a car is unnecessary and parking will cost you about $60.00 per night.  If you are traveling around the Bay Area, a car is handy, whether it's a rental or you use Uber (the latter was very convenient).

Where to Stay:

We used Starwood Preferred Guest points to stay two nights free at the Sheraton Fisherman's Wharf.  Well-located, with some nice outdoor spaces including a pool, the hotel itself is average to below-average.  Our courtyard-facing room was noisy, although my friends' street-facing rooms were quieter.  The front desk staff was helpful and friendly, but the concierge was apathetic.  Near the airport, we spent a night at the Best Western Plus El Rancho Inn in Millbrae.  The motel was clean and served its purpose for a night, but I thought was overpriced at $240.00 and the shuttle ride to the airport was longer than I expected (about 20 minutes).  However, I loved that I could book a shuttle time the night before, and the shuttle ran on time.  I abhor waiting with a group of people larger than a shuttle can accommodate, everyone eyeing each other wondering who is going to get on and who has to wait.  So my two primary goals of an airport hotel were met by the very basic Best Western Plus El Rancho Inn - a quiet night's sleep, and a reliable 24-hour shuttle service.

Where to Eat:

In San Francisco:

• Breakfast:  Hollywood Café in Fisherman's Wharf (get there early to beat the crowds)
• Lunch:  Thin-crust, fresh pizzas at Carmel Pizza in Fisherman's Wharf (outside seating only) or Slanted Door for highly-acclaimed Vietnamese in the Ferry Building/Embarcadero/Pier One
• Dinner:  Sotto Mare Oysteria & Seafood Restaurant in North Beach (book ahead)
• Chocolate, ice-cream and candy:  Ghiradelli Square has several ice-cream bars and chocolates for sale. Nearby, See's candies is known for their filled chocolates.  Buy a box for the plane :)

In Sausalito:

• Lunch or Dinner:  Copita for inventive and tasty Mexican fare and friendly service

In Silicon Valley:

• Breakfast:  Crepe Vine in downtown Burlingame; Buck's in Woodside (Buck's also has a lunch menu)
• Dinner:  The Conservatory at The Ritz Carlton at Half Moon Bay (go before sunset, setting is gorgeous!); Il Fornaio in Burlingame

In Millbrae, near San Bruno and the airport:

• Dinner:  The Third Eye for delicious Indian food

What to Do:

• Bike the Golden Gate Bridge:  The highlight for us was our bike ride across the Golden Gate Bridge. Start at Blazing Saddles, which will efficiently outfit you with a bike, helmet, lock, ferry tickets and directions.  (If you call ahead, they will give you 20% off the rental.)  Most of the trail is car-free, although there are some sections with vehicular traffic.  We stopped in Sausalito and took the ferry back to San Francisco, but the trail continues with a chance to see the Redwoods, ending in Tiburon where you can catch a ferry back to the city.  Note that on busy days, you should line up for the ferry at least fifteen minutes early, as cyclists are let on only after pedestrians board.  As we wheeled our bikes back through Blazing Saddles to return them, the entire staff applauded and cheered.  Wish I was greeted that way when I return home every evening!

• Ride a Cable Car:  I naively thought that San Francisco's cable cars were part of the public transportation system, so was surprised that catching a ride on the Powell-Hyde line to Lombard Street cost $7.00 per person!  The kids loved standing on the edge of the car, hanging onto the poles while the cable car whisked us up San Francisco's steep streets.  

• Visit Lombard Street:  Billed as the city's "crookedest street", Lombard Street is packed with tourists both driving and walking down the curvy road.  We had fun walking along the sidewalk, looking at the houses and stopping for photos.  Click here for a good article on ways to experience Lombard Street and nearby steep roads to get a sense of hilly San Francisco.

• Stroll Ghiradelli Square:  The only thing that Ghiradelli Square has more of than tourists is chocolates. I counted four chocolate shops, filled with truffles, chocolate bars, ice-cream counters and treats.  The largest shop has sample chocolate-making equipment in the back of the store, but it's underwhelming if you want to really learn about chocolate production.  If you look closely, you'll find a tiny juice bar in the midst of all of the chocolate, which serves vegetable and fruit juices in glass bottles.  

• Explore Fisherman's Wharf & the Ferries:  Fisherman's Wharf is probably the most touristy part of San Francisco, but is fun to walk around especially for the kids.  There's a nice grassy spot in front of Ghiradelli Square near the waterfront where they can play and you can sit and enjoy the view.  For more action, head to Pier 39 for amusements like a carousel and arcade.  From Pier 41, you can catch a ferry to adorable Sausalito or Tiburon, or enjoy a scenic cruise around the bay.  Click here for ferry information and schedules.

• Visit Alcatraz:  Initially, I assumed we would visit Alcatraz, thinking the kids would find it exciting.  I recall visiting as a teenager, and found it interesting.  However, my friend told me that the audio tour frightened her otherwise brave eleven-year-old, with stories of attempted escapes and prison riots. Her daughter slept with her mom for a week afterwards.  Other friends told me that their kids were not frightened.  But since my nine-year-old already asks me to look under his bed for robbers before he climbs in every night, we decided to skip Alcatraz.  If you decide to go, book well in advance of your trip (tickets are available about 90 days ahead) by clicking here.

• Exploratorium:  If the weather had been rainy, we would have followed friends' advice to spend an afternoon at Exploratorium, San Francisco's hands-on science museum that receives rave reviews from all eleven of the kids we visited on our trip.  Click here for more information.

• Golden Gate Park:  The weather cooperated during our trip, so we spent a morning in Golden Gate Park. The Japanese Tea Garden is pretty, and a relaxing place to stroll.  There is a snack bar where you can have a pot of tea.  The park is a good place to bike, and there are lots of playgrounds for the kids.

• Sports:  If it's baseball season, consider buying tickets to attend a San Francisco Giants' game, since the stadium is in the heart of downtown.  If you have young children, read Ballpark Mysteries #7: San Francisco Splash, before you go.

• Wander through the Ferry Building Marketplace:  the Ferry Building Marketplace is a great spot to hit around lunchtime.  Farmers sell their fruits and vegetables and restaurants offer take-away chowder, tamales, bakery items and more.  My chef friend, Julia, recommended sitting down for top notch Vietnamese fare at The Slanted Door, which I had read online is fantastic.  We didn't have time this trip for a sit-down lunch, but enjoyed our take-out items from various vendors.