Sensational, Sunny San Diego

By:  Jennifer Milano, January 2016

In 1999, my now-husband and I were lounging in my New York City apartment after an 80+ hour work week.  "What do you want to do now, before we settle down and have kids, so you have no regrets?" I asked him.  "You first," he replied.  "I want to travel for six months again, or live abroad," was my predictable answer.  "I've always wanted to live on the beach in San Diego," my husband revealed.  "Let's do it," I declared with uncharacteristic rashness.  My Type A nature means I am normally cautious and thorough before making a decision on how to cut my hair, let alone move across the country.  "Let's do both," I continued, "first move to San Diego and later travel or live abroad."  We both worked at large New York law firms and in the 1999 economy, new jobs would be easy for us to find.  After celebrating the Millennial New Year on the beach in Belize with friends, we quit our jobs, shipped our belongings to the west coast, and boarded a plane to San Diego.

It was February 1st.  I remember sitting on the plane in New York, looking out the window, and getting teary.  "Why am I leaving New York?" I asked myself.  "I love it here."  My Type A tendencies had finally kicked in.  I worried that we were making a big mistake, leaving behind our jobs, apartments, friends and favorite Manhattan restaurants.  But it was way too late to change my mind.  Five hours later, the plane landed in sunny San Diego, and we walked out of the airport into 80 degree-weather.  We borrowed a car from our friends and drove to Pacific Beach, where many of my husband's friends lived.  The palm trees were swaying in the breeze.  My fellow twenty-somethings strolled around in shorts and flip-flops, looking as if they had not a care in the world other than if the surf would be good that evening.  I decided this looked alright.  I could handle this move.

Within two days of arriving in San Diego, my husband started the job he had secured before we left New York, I accepted a job offer and we rented an adorable little house (about three times the size of my New York City apartment for half the price) on a cliff overlooking the ocean.  We bought wet suits and surfboards.  We worked from 9 to 5 like normal people, and after work we went for a run or a bike ride, stopping in our tracks along with the rest of southern California to watch the sunset each evening.  Unlike many of the moves that would follow this one in my life, transferring to San Diego had been easy.  Except for one thing.  The food.  We tried restaurant after restaurant in San Diego, and nothing came close to the unrealistic standards we had developed in New York.  Not only was the pizza a major disappointment, but we discovered that all lobsters are not created equal.  The mealy, tasteless Pacific lobsters were nothing like the sweet, meaty Maine lobsters we were used to.  While we managed to find a handful of great eateries during our two years of eating out in San Diego, the restaurant scene generally failed to impress.

While we left San Diego in 2002 to travel for seven months and move back to the east coast, every single one of our friends stayed there for good.  And in about mid-February in New England each year, I conclude that they were the smart ones.  But having lots of friends in San Diego means visiting our old stomping grounds is a breeze.  We returned most recently in 2014 with our children.  San Diego is a fabulous choice for a family vacation, and we had a perfect week taking surf lessons, visiting Legoland and catching up with old friends.  We excitedly showed our (uninterested) kids the house where we used to live, which hadn't changed at all.  But San Diego delivered one big, surprising change on that 2014 visit.  The restaurants.  So many great restaurants!  San Diego has really stepped it up in the culinary realm, and now there are really very few reasons why everyone shouldn't just move there.

When to go: 

San Diego is known for its perfect weather.  Along the coast, the temperatures range in the 60's and 70's year-round, but summertime is warmer and better for the beach.  (On February 1, 2000, when I arrived in San Diego to 80-degree temps, I learned that the Santa Ana winds that blow through the area periodically were responsible for the unusually warm weather.)  May Gray and June Gloom are the least desirable months to visit coastal San Diego, due to the foggy mornings.

How to get here and around: 

You will need a car in San Diego.  I recall when I first moved to San Diego, after being used to walking everywhere in New York City, I was shocked at how few pedestrians there were.  San Diego's airport is easy to navigate and centrally located just ten minutes from downtown and fifteen minutes from La Jolla.  Beware that weather-spoiled southern Californians are not adept at driving in the rain.

What to do: 

When I lived in San Diego for two years, I often felt as though I was on a permanent vacation.  There is so much to do in San Diego, and you can be outside 365 days a year.  If you have kids, San Diego is one of the best places I know to vacation.  Here are my suggestions:

• San Diego Zoo - "San Diego" and "zoo" are virtually synonymous.  San Diego is home to probably the most famous zoo in the U.S.  Now I'm going to say something that will be unpopular.  I don't really like zoos all that much, and San Diego isn't my favorite zoo.  I was much more impressed by the zoo in Sydney, Australia.  But that being said, as far as zoos go, San Diego Zoo is a good one, and if you are interested in animals or have kids with you, you should visit.  The zoo is located in Balboa Park, just a stone's throw from downtown, and home to many other attractions such as a carousel and more than a dozen museums.  The park itself is beautiful, and boasts Spanish colonial and mission-style buildings that are worth a look.  For the zoo's official website, click here.  For Balboa Park's official website, click here. 

• San Diego Safari Park - for a slightly more natural wildlife experience, consider traveling northeast from the city to the San Diego Safari Park, near Escondido.  There are a variety of safaris that will bring you in sight of giraffes, rhinos and cheetahs, including a zip line safari.  Click here for more information.

• SeaWorld San Diego - SeaWorld has received a lot of negative press due to its use of Orcas, but if you are inclined to visit the park, SeaWorld San Diego is conveniently located near downtown San Diego.  Click here for SeaWorld San Diego's website.

• Birch Aquarium - if you are seeking a more intimate wildlife encounter, visit the Birch Aquarium at the Scripps Institution of Oceanograpy in La Jolla.  This small aquarium is a perfect place to bring small children, and affords beautiful ocean views.  Click here for Birch Aquarium's website.

• La Jolla Cove - if you prefer viewing sea life in a natural environment, visit La Jolla Cove to see the sea lions basking in the sun on the beach and playing in the ocean waves.  Located just behind the main street in downtown La Jolla, the Cove is one of the best stops in San Diego.  You can also reach the Cove by kayak - rent one at La Jolla Shores, or go on a guided kayak tour.

• La Jolla Shores - one of my favorite beaches in San Diego, La Jolla Shores is wide and sandy, with perfect waves for beginner surfers.  The main street in La Jolla Shores has surf shops where you can rent a board or a kayak, or sign up for a lesson or tour.  Our son loved the kayak tour from La Jolla Shores to La Jolla Cove.  We've also just rented kayaks and explored on our own - once we had two dolphins swimming around our kayaks just off the beach!

• Bird Rock, La Jolla - our close friends live in Bird Rock, my favorite La Jolla neighborhood for its authenticity and village-feel.  You can stroll along the main street and get a coffee, then walk down to the beach to watch the surfers.  On the way, you can gaze longingly at the beautiful homes overlooking the Pacific.

• Pacific Beach - we used to live in the north end of Pacific Beach, just by Tourmaline Beach side.  If you park down any of the side streets that meet the ocean on the north side of Pacific Beach, you can join the footpath that extends south all the way down Pacific Beach, Mission Beach and into Ocean Beach.  You can jog, bike, roller blade or just walk.  You'll see yoga practitioners, surfers, street performers and lots of colorful sites (and people).  Stop at Kono's Café, located at the beach end of Crystal Pier, for breakfast or lunch.  If you want to fish, you can rent a pole and bait at the ocean end of Crystal Pier.  Tourmaline Beach at Pacific Beach is a great beginner surfer's beach, as well.

• Mission Beach & Bay - the residents become even more colorful as you venture into Mission Beach, a continuation of the long beach heading south from Pacific Beach.  Play on the beach, go for a swim, walk the boardwalk and if you get hungry, pop across the main street to eat a delicious breakfast or lunch at The Mission.  Just on the other side of the main street opposite the ocean is Mission Bay, a saltwater lagoon popular with windsurfers and water skiers.  Surrounding the bay is a sidewalk that is a great place to walk or jog.   

• Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve - my favorite place to hike in San Diego is at Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve (named after the rare Torrey Pine, of which you will see many in the preserve.  Torrey Pines claims a magnificent spot right on the ocean, and has several hiking trails (some of which take you down the cliffs to the beach).  Click here for more information.

• Legoland - the complete opposite of Torrey Pines, Legoland California is an amusement park aimed to please San Diego's youngest visitors.  Located in Carlsbad, about 30 minutes north of San Diego, Legoland has rides, a water park and Lego replicas of places like New York City and Las Vegas.  Our kids loved Legoland, despite the long lines that made their parents cranky.  Click here for the park's website.

• Coronado - Coronado Island, connected by bridge to downtown San Diego, boasts one of the area's best beaches.  Just behind the famous Hotel Del Coronado, Coronado Central Beach is a 1.5 mile long wide, sandy beach that is a wonderful place to spend the day.  Stay for sunset!  Coronado is a resort community, and a great place to stay in San Diego.

• Downtown San Diego - while not the main draw in San Diego, downtown is worth a few hours of your time.  The Gaslamp Quarter is a fun place to have lunch or dinner.  If you are a baseball fan, the Padres stadium is in the heart of downtown.  You can organize a boat trip to view San Diego from the water.  For kids, there is a children's museum.  And for military enthusiasts, the U.S.S. Midway Museum is a real aircraft carrier you can explore - there is even an audio tour designed for children ages 7-12.  In my opinion, you can skip the touristy Seaport Village.  And if you are pressed for time while on vacation, you can skip downtown altogether - in my view, La Jolla and the other beach communities are more enticing.

• Old Town San Diego -  Yes, it's really touristy.  But Old Town is a fun place to explore for an hour or two, and get a sense of what California may have been like when it was first settled by Europeans in the 1800's.  Click here for Old Town attractions and events, such as "living history" days. 

• Heading across the border - Mexico is less than 20 miles from San Diego, but cross the border and you will feel a world away.  Poverty is evident as soon as you cross into the border town of Tijuana.  From the border, travel 18 miles south to Rosarito, a cute beach town, and continue 45 minutes further south to Ensenada, a charming community with a boardwalk and fish restaurants.  In between the two towns lies Puerto Nuevo, where you can have an inexpensive, festive lobster meal on the water (but see my note above regarding the inferiority of Pacific lobster).  For the adventurous, time your trip with the 50-mile bike ride from Rosarito to Ensenada, which is really hilly but beautiful, and lots of fun.  I recommend you ride a road bike (we made the mistake of bringing our mountain bikes).  Click here for information on the bike ride.  Before considering the trip to Mexico, please visit www.state.gov for the latest travel warnings, bring a valid passport, make sure your rental car company permits you to take your vehicle across the border, and think carefully about whether the trip is worth the long waits that can greet you at the border.  If you really want to see Mexico, in my opinion there are more interesting areas to visit than Baja California.

Where to stay: 

If you aren't as lucky as we are to have friends in San Diego with guest rooms, you'll need a good hotel.  San Diego's best hotels seem to be concentrated downtown or northeast of the city, whereas I prefer to be on the coast.  La Jolla Shores is one of my favorite areas, because the wide sandy beach is beautiful, and there is a little main street with shops and restaurants to give visitors that seaside village atmosphere.  The La Jolla Beach & Tennis Club, just south of La Jolla Shores, is one option for a hotel right on the beach.  If you prefer to be in downtown La Jolla, check out Pantai Inn, highly-rated on TripAdvisor, and with ocean views.  In the heart of downtown La Jolla across from the ocean, La Valencia Hotel was my parents' choice to stay years ago.  They thought it was acceptable but not spectacular (where do you think I got my Type A nature? My dad's standards are even higher than mine). 

If you want to be in the heart of Pacific Beach, right on the boardwalk and within walking distance of shops and restaurants, try the Pacific Terrace Hotel, which I walked by everyday when I lived in San Diego, but never saw its rooms.  My San Diegan friends, Dave and Julie, like the Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa in Mission Beach for its oceanfront location and affordable rooms.  Dave also recommends checking out Tower23 Hotel, a modern hotel right on Pacific Beach. 

Coronado Island, connected by bridge to downtown San Diego, is also a good place to base yourself for a beachresort community atmosphere.  Dave and Julie, recently stayed beachfront at the recently rehabbed Hotel Del Coronado, and give it high marks.  Although less posh than the Hotel Del, Dave also enjoyed his stay at the Loews Coronado Bay Resort, in a secluded, beachfront location.  Personally, I prefer the convenience and vibe of staying in La Jolla, but Coronado is a great place to base yourself if you want to be on a spectacular stretch of beach near downtown San Diego. 

Just north of La Jolla, Del Mar is an upscale beach town and friends report that L'Auberge Del Mar is a great hotel.  Dave and Julie like the restaurant and spa at L'Auberge.  Upscale, inland choices include the Fairmont Grand Del Mar (Dave cautions to avoid its overpriced restaurant, Addison), Rancho Valencia and Rancho Bernardo Inn, but Dave advises visitors to choose beachfront locations instead, and I agree.

Where to eat: 

As emphasized above, the restaurant options in San Diego have vastly improved in the last ten years, and visitors have many excellent choices throughout the county. 

• Fish Tacos:  At least once a week, I crave the succulent fish tacos from a hole-in-the-wall takeout place in North Pacific Beach called Oscars Mexican Seafood.  The grilled shrimp tacos there are my favorite (credit for this find goes to our San Diegan friends, Scott and Kristen) .  You can also get excellent fish tacos at South Beach Bar & Grille in Ocean Beach. 
• Breakfast & Lunch:  Our favorite breakfast and lunch spot is The Mission, in Mission Beach.  For weekend breakfasts, go early or be prepared to wait in line.  After your meal, you can stroll around Mission Bay or walk on Mission Beach after your meal.  In Pacific Beach, hit Kono's Café for breakfast or lunch.  After standing in line to order your meal, look for a table across the boardwalk where Kono's has a small outdoor patio.  If you are in downtown La Jolla seeking a great breakfast or lunch, try The Cottage (but be prepared to wait in line at peak hours). 
• Gelato:  Kristen and Scott, gelato connoisseurs and San Diegans, report that the best gelato is at Bobboi in La Jolla.
• Barbecue:  Phil's BBQ, with various locations, is the place to go if you crave barbecue. 
• Pizza:  Liberty Pizza in Pacific Beach is the closest we've found in San Diego to good, New York-style pizza.  Kristen and Scott report that Pizza on Pearl, in La Jolla, is better. 
• Upscale in La Jolla:  Kristen and Scott suggest you try Nine-Ten, The Hake (currently closed for remodeling, so check first), Whisknladle, Catania, Duke's, Eddie V's and Herringbone (more for the setting than the food).  Dave and Julie second the recommendation for Eddie V's and Herringbone.
• Casual in La Jolla:  Kristen and Scott like Sugar and Scribe, El Pescador and Taco Stand.  Dave and Julie enjoy Beaumont's in the Bird Rock neighborhood of La Jolla. 
• Pacific Beach:  For a nice seafood meal in Pacific Beach, head to The Fishery, both a market and restaurant.  Kristen and Scott like Enoteca Adriano and PB Sushi.  Dave and Julie like JRDN in Tower23 Hotel, directly on the beach in PB with good food and a young, hip scene. 
• Del Mar and North County:  Dave and Julie like AVANT, in the Rancho Bernardo Inn.  They report that the food is very good, and love the restaurant's indoor-outdoor feel.  On the ocean in Del Mar, Jake's Del Mar is a good bet on a summer evening.  Dave reports that while the food is not incredible, the dining room has been nicely updated and the ocean views make it worth a meal there.  Also, see "the best of the best" below for Dave's top choice in all of San Diego, located in Del Mar.
• Asian Cuisine:  My husband and I headed to Convoy Street in Claremont every chance we got for excellent Asian cuisine.  We had Chinese dim sum breakfasts at Jasmine and Emerald, Japanese rice bowl lunches at Chopsticks and Vietnamese dinners at the many diners in the area.
• Downtown:  Try Athens Market Taverna for good Greek cuisine.  If you crave Italian, head to San Diego's Little Italy neighborhood.
• 2016 San Diego hot spots:  Per Kristen and Scott, try Juniper and Ivy, Coasterra (amazing setting), Queenstown Public House, 100 Wines and Kensington Exchange.
• The best of the best:  Dave and Julie's top pick in all of San Diego is MARKET Restaurant + Bar in Del Mar.  Dave and Julie have high standards and are real foodies, so the next time I'm heading to San Diego, I will have a table reserved at MARKET.