Québec City

By Jennifer Milano, May 2017

I love my Fairmont Visa card.  It's my third-in-line card.  I use it only on occasion, but the perks add up anyway.  Free nights, dining coupons, complimentary upgrades...and it seems that every time I want to use them, I can.  In April, I noticed that I had two free nights that would expire this summer, so I started looking at where in our travel schedule could we squeeze in a weekend, preferably in driving distance, to score a free trip.  I narrowed it down to two Fairmont properties - The Plaza in New York City, and The Chateau Frontenac in Québec City.  I've never been to Québec, and had heard the old quarter feels really French, so I called Fairmont to see if we could use our two free nights at the Chateau Frontenac over Memorial Day weekend.  And of course, as they always do, Fairmont said "yes!"

To pay for a night at the Chateau Frontenac runs anywhere from $400 a night to thousands, so we wanted only to use our free nights.  I texted my friend, Mira, who lives in Bangor, Maine to ask if we could stop there Friday night for a visit, and we would continue onto Québec on Saturday.  Not only did Mira, too, say "yes!" but she asked if she, her husband and three girls could caravan up to Québec and join us for the weekend.  Thrilled with how easily this free trip was coming together, now to be enhanced by our good friends joining us, I texted back "yes!"

We had a fabulous weekend in Québec, doing nothing but walking the city's charming old quarter, eating French-inspired food, playing in the city's parks and fountains and relaxing on the rooftop deck of our friends' rental apartment.  Add in sunny weather and the fact that all we paid for was parking, gas and food, and it was pretty much a perfect trip!

How to Get to and Around Québec:

We drove between coastal New England and Québec, which was long but easy.  Québec City has an airport if you prefer to fly, and Montréal's airport is three hours away.  Burlington, Vermont's airport is about four hours from Québec City.  You don't need a car within Québec City as virtually everything is really within walking distance. 

Where to Stay in Québec:

Fairmont's Chateau Frontenac is a huge, 19th century chateau in the heart of Québec's old walled city, sitting along the boardwalk that lines the St. Lawrence River.  It is perfectly situated, boasts an indoor pool and excellent service.  Our (free) suite was a bit dated, but large and comfortable.  The hotel's concierge booked our restaurant reservations for us, as we were a group of nine, which was helpful.  Our friends booked an apartment rental a one-minute walk from the Chateau Frontenac at Lofts du Tresor.  Their three-bedroom apartment was spotless, modern and well-located.  The building's rooftop deck had great views.  Smaller apartments are available in this building, as well, to rent by the night.

Where to Eat in Québec:

Our friends, Mira and Jens, love to eat fabulous food as much as we do.  With five kids in tow, I searched for casual restaurants with excellent reviews.  Some hit the mark and others missed by a bit:

Breakfast:

Hands down, go to Paillard Bakery, in the old town.  Arrive early if you don't like waiting in lines, but if you are waiting in line, console yourself with the knowledge that soon you'll be sinking your teeth into a flaky, buttery croissant with homemade pear vanilla jam.  All of the pastries at Paillard were top notch.

Breakfast or Lunch:

Le Billig is known for having the best crepes in Québec, and they were delicious.  Book ahead if you don't want to wait as they do take reservations.  The fifteen-minute walk from the old town is worth it.  Avoid the creperie next to the Chateau Frontenac - it is awful.

Lunch or dinner:

The burgers at Le Chic Shack were very good, as were the house-cut fries.  Le Chic Shack is known for poutine, but my husband thought his was just okay.  This casual spot is located in the heart of the old town and has a small terrace for outdoor dining.  A foodie friend of mine recommends Olive & Gourmando for amazing sandwiches, and Laloux for dinner.

Bistro Sous-le-fort is an adorable restaurant located in the charming pedestrian area located just below the city walls along the river.  My husband thought the poutine here was better than Le Chic Shack.  The rest of us thought our dishes were just average.  I was disappointed that so many of their items, including the wild mushroom ravioli and french fries, are not house made.  However, the maple syrup cake is divine.  I recommend you make a reservation if you decide to try this restaurant.

Dessert:

The hotel concierge recommended I try the maple syrup pie at La Buche, and thank goodness I did.  I was glad the piece was small, because it was very sweet, but the crust and whipped cream were homemade and the pie filling was really yummy.  I also loved the maple syrup cake at Bistro Sous-le-fort, and the pastries at Paillard.  We checked out the top three gelaterias in Québec, and settled on The Maple Delights.  It was okay.  The gelato at Tutto Gelato and Paillard didn't look impressive, either, but I am a gelato snob.

Restaurants we did not try but that come highly recommended:  Le-Saint Amour (ask for the garden room), Restaurant Legende, Toast!, Echaude, and Panache.

What to do in Québec:

We walked all weekend, wandering the cobblestone streets admiring the old stone buildings and river views.  We strolled along the city walls, stopping to play in playgrounds and watch the kids run up and down grassy hills.  The kids loved climbing on the cannons that line the boardwalk by the Chateau Frontenac, but their favorite was playing in the fountains in front of L'Hotel de Ville.  Walk down the steps to the part of the city just below the boardwalk, where Bistro Sous-le-fort is, and wander those streets.  Take the funicular back up just for fun, or to avoid hearing the kids complain about the climb.  If you prefer indoor activities, there are several museums, as well as an aquarium that Mira and Jens said was small, but good.