Munich, Germany

Of the larger cities in Germany, Munich is my favorite.  The Altstadt, or old part of the city, has the charm of a Bavarian market town, with winding cobblestone streets to explore and old-world-style buildings.  After spending two days in Munich with my husband and two kids (ages 9 & 12), here are my recommendations:

When to Visit:

All four of my visits to Munich have been in summertime.  I can't imagine visiting the city when it's too cold to stroll, but if you are a museum junkie anytime of year would do.  I tend to avoid large festivals because of crowds and costs, but if you feel otherwise, Oktoberfest is held from mid-September into early October.  

How to Get to Munich:

Munich's airport is about 30-45 minutes from the city center, by taxi (costly at around 70 Euros) or S-Bahn train to the main train station.  From the central train station, which is located just on the edge of the Altstadt, you can easily walk or take the U-Bahn or a taxi to your hotel.  If you are driving, ask your hotel to help you arrange parking.  You won't need a car during your stay in the city.

Where to Stay:

For our most recent trip, my family stayed at the Platzl Hotel, well-located just across from the Hofbrauhaus in the center of the Old Town.  Ask for a room facing the courtyard for a quiet night's sleep.  We had a good, comfortable room for about 280 Euros a night, which included a plentiful (but in my opinion, poor quality - last night's dinner rolls and undercooked eggs) breakfast.  However, we had to book two rooms for four people.  I researched several hotels, but they were all costly for a family of four.  If you want to be in the Old Town for a lower price, consider an apartment rental.  The Platzl was convenient and we were happy there, although many of the staff did not have a service-oriented attitude.

Where to Eat:

If you've never been, you should visit the Hofbrauhaus just to experience a large German beer hall, even if it does feel like a tourist trap.  My kids were psyched to buy massive pretzels from the dirndl-clad women walking around the dining room.  My husband was psyched to drink beer from a massive mug.  Live traditional music is played every evening. The food is just okay.  The boiled veal sausages were probably the highlight.

Across the street from the Hofbrauhaus, the Wirsthaus Ayinger is a nice restaurant, with a cozy wood-paneled interior and tables that spill out into the pedestrian street.  The wiener schnitzel and kasespaetzle (like macaroni and cheese) were really good, and we devoured the fresh salads, thankful for vegetables in this meat-heavy town.  The apple strudel was good but not great.

The beer garden by the Chinese Tower in the Englischer Garten is good for atmosphere and beer, but not for food. 

When you tire of sausages and schnitzel, head to Prinz Myshkin for solid vegetarian fare. My husband's malai kofta was good, but not excellent.  My spinach crepes were delicious, as was our salad.  My kids liked their pizza and pasta, and loved their desserts.

Our favorite pretzel stand ended up being in the Marienplatz U-Bahn Station, called Brezelina.  The pretzel sandwich with Emmenthal cheese, cucumber and lettuce made for a yummy snack.

What to Do:

• Englischer Garten:  Our family's favorite Munich activity was to walk and wander.  We spent hours in the Englischer Garten, where my kids loved watching the surfers on the Eisbach River that flows through the park, creating a surf-able wave every once in a while.  There are playgrounds and pigeons and places to run that will keep your kids busy and happy.  We walked from the Altstadt to the park, beginning at the bridge overlooking the Eisbahn and continuing to the Chinese Tower.  From there, we walked out of the park to catch the U-Bahn at Universitaat.  For anyone who is or has been a New Yorker, the German subways are worth a ride so you can marvel at their cleanliness, smooth tracks and efficiency.  

• The Altstadt and Marienplatz:  Many of the Altstadt's streets are pedestrian-only, making it a stress-free place to stroll with the kids.  You can stop to check out one of the area's many churches or squares.  The Glockenspiel show at the Marienplatz happens daily at 11:00 am, 12:00 pm and during summertime, at 5:00 pm.  My kids thought it was extremely boring, causing my daughter to roll her eyes and my son to borrow an expression he picked up from The Genius Files book, "let's blow this pop stand."

• The BMW Museum:  For car enthusiasts, this museum is a must.  My son loved looking at the old models of cars and motorbikes.  The three times I have been to this museum over the past 20 years it has been uncrowded, so I feel safe advising you to just show up and there is no need to book advance tickets online.

• The Deutsche Museum:  Kind of like an old-fashioned Smithsonian Air & Space Museum, Munich's class Deutsche Museum is a good place to spend a rainy morning.

• Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site:  We thought our kids were a little bit young this time, but on prior trips to Munich I have taken the train to Dachau to visit the concentration camp.  As you can imagine, it is a profound experience.  Click here for more information.