Maine

Ogunquit, Maine

Ogunquit, Maine

After fighting I-95 traffic for hours heading north in the summer, I always exhale when our car crosses the border and I see the sign: "Welcome to Maine, The Way Life Should Be".  I completely agree (except maybe for the six months of winter issue).  Maine is filled with charming beach towns, gorgeous lakes, pine tree covered mountains, and New England's only national park, Acadia, which boasts bike paths and coastal views.  And no summer vacation in Maine is complete without a lobster roll, best enjoyed by a lighthouse or sandy beach as you watch the waves crash on shore.  Here are some of my favorite spots in Maine:

Portland

Maine's most populous city feels more like a town.  Portland has great shopping, fantastic restaurants and a cool vibe.

How to Get Here and When to Go:

Portland's airport is easy to navigate, and the traffic is non-existent by any tri-state area resident's standards.  If your goal is to eat, anytime of year works (my husband and I had a kid-free weekend escape one January).  But it really is much more pleasurable to visit Portland between May and October.

Where to Stay:

My husband and I liked the bed and breakfast we stayed in a few years ago, rated number one on TripAdvisor at the time, called the Inn on Carleton.  Located in a charming neighborhood of row houses, the Inn on Carleton has a friendly host, immaculate rooms and a delicious breakfast.  The heart of Portland is just a ten to twenty minute walk away.  If you prefer to stay down by the harbor, try the Portland Harbor Hotel or the Embassy Suites.

Where to Eat:

My husband and I considered moving to Portland in 2002, and the food was a main draw for us.  Make reservations as soon as you know your travel schedule.  You must eat at:

Gorgeous dessert at Five Fifty-Five, my top restaurant choice in Portland, Maine

Gorgeous dessert at Five Fifty-Five, my top restaurant choice in Portland, Maine

  • Five Fifty-Five:  I had one of the best meals of my life at Five Fifty-Five.  My husband and I had a quiet table.  Our waiter was passionate about the menu and described the dishes with a depth of knowledge and excitement.  I still remember the truffled lobster macaroni and cheese.  I know what you are thinking - it's now a generic menu item.  But at Five Fifty-Five the lobster is special - fresh and butter poached and the dish is perfectly executed.  The appetizers and desserts were so good they make you close your eyes and savor every morsel.  Get the picture?  Go here for dinner!  They are also open for brunch.
Fries at Duck Fat are crispy and addictive, Portland, Maine

Fries at Duck Fat are crispy and addictive, Portland, Maine

  • Duck Fat:  I have been to the tiny, famous Duck Fat twice for lunch.  Get there early, preferably when they open, and join a communal table.  Order the french fries (fried in duck fat, of course), a sea salted caramel milkshake and one of the panini.  My daughter loved the tomato-fennel soup and homemade sodas, too.  The food is outstanding, although you may want to wander down the street to get a cleansing green juice at Maine Squeeze Juice Café afterward!
  • Fore Street:  One of Portland's more well-known, established restaurants, Fore Street has great, locally-sourced food in a loud, yet cozy and trendy environment.  We thought the food was really good, but not stand out like Five Fifty-Five and Duck Fat. The menu changes daily.
Savory and sweet treats at Standard Baking Co., Portland, Maine

Savory and sweet treats at Standard Baking Co., Portland, Maine

  • Standard Baking Co.:  The most praised bakery in Portland, the Standard Baking Co. deserves its excellent reputation.  Stop in for bread, focaccia, cookies, brownies and more - all baked with organic flour!  We loved every bite!
  • Two Fat Cats Bakery:  My husband and I enjoyed the cozy little Two Fat Cats Bakery, where we got a Maine specialty - a whoopie pie, as well as yummy muffins and blueberry pie.  As you have probably gleaned, I love bakeries.  Just the word "pastry" makes me swoon.
  • Micucci Grocery:  Next to Fat Cats Bakery is an Italian grocery store called Micucci Grocery.  Follow your nose to the back where you will find fresh slices of Sicilian-style pizza coming out of the oven.  My husband and I are pizza snobs.  We thought the pizza was good.  But not fantastic.

What to Do:

  • Walk around downtown Portland, exploring the shops and galleries on Congress Street and by the harbor. While Stonewall Kitchen products are available in practically every grocery store nowadays, buying the Maine company's products at Portland's store feels special.
Long Island, Maine

Long Island, Maine

  • Rent a bike in Portland and take the ferry out to one of the islands.  We took a 30-minute ferry ride one day to Long Island (Maine, not New York).  We explored the island on our bikes.  The ocean vistas are beautiful and the quiet island feels serene. Click here for the Casco Bay's ferry information for all eight islands it services.  Click here for an article about Long Island and its hidden beaches.  Peaks Island is one of the more well-known islands off of Portland, and can be explored on horseback.
  • Walk around the West End to see some of Portland's historic homes.
  • Drive south of Portland to Cape Elizabeth for classic Maine views, compete with lighthouse.  Sit by the Portland Head Light with a lobster roll and breathe in that salty air.  If you don't have a car, consider taking the trolley (click here).
  • Swim.  Just kidding.  Unless you have a wetsuit.  Maine's waters will numb your legs in minutes!  But you can hop on a kayak (click here) or duck boat (click here) for some time on the water, instead of in it.

Ogunquit and Maine's South Coast Towns

Footbridge Beach, Ogunquit, Maine

Footbridge Beach, Ogunquit, Maine

South of Portland you will find typical New England beach towns.  Our favorite is Ogunquit, which has wide sandy beaches, an oceanside walking path and candy stores to keep the kids happy.  We rented a house near Footbridge Beach, a beautiful, empty, wide stretch of sand where our kids could run and play to their heart's content.  Nearby Wells also has a nice beach.

If it's boardwalk cheese you crave, visit Old Orchard Beach for seaside amusements. The food on the pier is awful and the rides are old school, but the park keeps the little ones entertained for awhile.

For more upscale action, visit Kennebunkport, a classic New England town made famous by the Bush family for their oceanside mansion.  While we rented a (much smaller) house for our stay in Kennebunkport, there are many upscale inns including the highly ranked Hidden Ponds. Drive the coast and walk the town, stopping for chowder and lobster rolls. We enjoyed our trip on a lobster boat - the captain caught lobsters and crabs for the kids to hold on the boat before throwing them back in the ocean, the best kind of touch tank!

Our captain explains how he traps the lobsters

Our captain explains how he traps the lobsters

Picking up the lobster feels safer once the captain has secured its claws

Picking up the lobster feels safer once the captain has secured its claws


Acadia National Park, Bar Harbor and Mount Desert Island

Acadia National Park, Maine

Acadia National Park, Maine

New England's only national park is located on Mount Desert Island, Maine's largest island, and is a gem.  There is lots of good hiking, but a unique aspect of Acadia is the 45 miles of old carriage roads, now open for biking.  The paths are wide and car-free, making them ideal for children.  The nearby seaside town of Bar Harbor with its multitude of restaurant and sh0ps is a good base, although the town is a bit touristy.  If you prefer a quieter location, try the Asticou Inn, a lovely oceanside hotel with a pool and tennis court close to Acadia.  The food was also delicious.  My husband and I stayed here on our babymoon.

A fun spot for lunch in Acadia is the Jordan Pond House Restaurant, famous for its beautiful location and popovers with strawberry jam.  Sit outside in the garden if the weather is nice!  Click here for the restaurant's website.

If your babies are already born and have grown a bit, consider an excursion from Bar Harbor with Diver Ed.  On this two-and-a-half hour boat ride, Diver Ed dives to the ocean floor with sound and video equipment so the passengers can see and hear the ocean from the deck's video screens.  He returns to the boat with creatures for a touch tank.  Although I have not taken this excursion, my friends J.P., Elizabeth and their girls highly recommend it!  Click here for more information.


Rockport and Camden

Rockport and Camden are two more of Maine's picture-perfect towns.  Camden has more shops and restaurants, while Rockport is more scenic.  If you have kids, read "Andre the Famous Harbor Seal" before your trip, and visit the statue of Andre while you are in Rockport.  Featuring beautiful rooms, an oceanside (heated) pool and a wonderful breakfast, the Inn at Ocean's Edge near downtown Camden is an excellent choice for accommodations.  The only downside is that we had to drive into town rather than walk.  Click here for more information.

Rockport, Maine

Rockport, Maine


Sebago Lake

Can you make out the bride, arriving to the ceremony by boat on Sebago Lake?

Can you make out the bride, arriving to the ceremony by boat on Sebago Lake?

Years ago, my friend got married at Migis Lodge on Sebago Lake, located just 30 minutes from Portland.  We stayed in a log cabin that was always unlocked, nestled in a pine forest steps from the pristine lake.  We dove off the dock and swam.  We took kayaks out to explore.  We ate delicious food.  It was a perfect summer weekend.  Think Dirty Dancing but much nicer (and minus the dirty dancing).  From June through October, cabins can accommodate families and are all-inclusive.  There are children's programs and a variety of boating options.  Migis Lodge is a fantastic place for a summer family reunion or vacation with friends.  Click here for more information.


Sugarloaf

We have good friends who live in Bangor, Maine, and lucky for us, they have a ski condo at Sugarloaf.  Despite the frigid temperatures (it was -76 degrees Fahrenheit at the summit this past February), we love skiing the family-friendly, low-key mountain.  Click here for more information on skiing the northeast with your kids.


A Stopover - Portsmouth, New Hampshire

Historic Portsmouth

Historic Portsmouth

On your way to or from Maine, stop for lunch in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, a historic town with adorable shops and restaurants.  We like to grab a quick bite at Ceres Bakery, which has homemade soups, sandwiches and treats.  We also brought the kids to Portsmouth during my cousin's fabulous wedding weekend, visiting the nearby Children's Museum of New Hampshire (you need a car).  Our kids loved the museum and my husband and I thought was very well done. Click here for information on the museum, and note that if you are a member of a museum that participates in the ASTC network, admission is free.  Strolling around Portsmouth and sitting at a local coffee shop were favorite "activities", as well.  We stayed at the Hilton Garden Inn, which was well-located and absolutely fine for a weekend.  Portsmouth is located about 50 miles from Portland.