A Week at a Colorado Dude Ranch

By:  Jennifer Milano, August 2015

One hot July day, I answered my cell phone to hear the voice of my former office mate, also my husband's former roommate (yes, he is the person who introduced us).  Dave had just returned from a week at Vista Verde ranch, 45 minutes outside of Steamboat Springs, Colorado, and he launched into the story of what he described as the best vacation his family had ever had.  "You'll love it there," Dave insisted, "but you need to book a year in advance." 

My family had just returned from 3+ weeks in Europe, which had been an amazing adventure, but had taken me countless hours to plan.  As much as I love travel planning, at the moment that Dave called, I was tired of reading TripAdvisor reviews, and the idea of making one phone call to reserve a week at the ranch was appealing.  And as much as my husband and I are not horse people, we knew our children, especially our horse-crazy daughter, would love the ranch.  I mulled it over for about a month (and, okay, I did read some dude ranch reviews), and in early September, I called Stephanie at Vista Verde.  Because the ranch lacks air-conditioning, I decided to book the third week of August, hoping for cooler temperatures.  "There is one cabin left for that week," Stephanie informed me.  "I'll take it," I replied.

As the months after my phone call wore on, doubt set in.  I wondered why I had booked a domestic trip, when the summer is filled with school-free weeks that meant we could travel far and wide.  I questioned the rationality of spending so much money on a week in Colorado, when the equivalent sum could sustain us for a month in Europe.  I felt reluctant to spend my vacation in the mountains, when the ocean is where I belong in summertime.  The saving grace?  Flights from the east coast to Denver were cheap - less than we pay to visit my in-laws in Detroit.  Plus, my daughter was over-the-moon excited.  And my husband loves the mountains.

August arrived.  We read Vista Verde's suggested packing list, and filled five suitcases with hiking, biking and riding gear.  We flew into Denver and rented a car that luckily had a huge trunk.  We drove four hours through beautiful mountain scenery, terrible traffic, and high altitudes to Steamboat Springs. 

After checking into a roadside hotel, we headed into town for the Friday night rodeo.  The ticket attendants greeted us with a "Howdy," and we wandered into the arena, following our noses to the barbecue counter.  As we ate our beef brisket sandwiches, we took in the scene.  Cowboys and cowgirls standing around, patting their horses.  Adult spectators sitting at picnic tables enjoying a cold beer.  Kids riding the toy horses on the mini-playground, pretending to be bucked off and landing happily in the grass.  The atmosphere was laid-back, and the rodeo felt real - not at all put on for tourists.  When the rodeo began, it was clear that it was indeed a real rodeo.  Locals were in the stands cheering on their favorite competitors.  The competitors were professional rodeo participants.  We watched cowgirls racing around barrels and bucking broncos trying to stay on their horses.  When it was time for the cowboys to lasso the cattle, we east coast fans started shifting in our seats in emotional discomfort.  We found ourselves rooting for the cows, feeling sorry for them as they were chased around the ring by galloping horses and intent cowboys.  The kids quickly changed sides, though, when it came time for them to join the other children in chasing a calf around the ring aiming to be the first one to pull a ribbon from the animal's tail.

We spent the next day enjoying Steamboat, a really lovely, authentic town set among the mountains.  After a delicious breakfast at Creekside Cafe, we took the ski lift up to the top of the alpine slide, which we rode down to the bottom at terrifying speeds.  Well, actually, we rode at reasonable speeds, ordered to do so by our cautious children.  Next, we took the magic carpet lift up to the top of the ski jump, and hopped in a plastic sled to fly down the long, steep run.  This time, the ride was controlled by gravity rather than a lever, and the speed WAS terrifying!  But our kids thought it was awesome, and so did their parents.  We spent the afternoon at Strawberry Park, which has hot springs in a natural setting about 20 minutes' drive from Steamboat.  We rented towels at the entrance, and put on bathing suits in the small changing cabin.  We all loved our time at the hot springs, trying out different temperature pools and enjoying the forest scenery around us.  When we heard thunder, we hustled to the changing cabin (no one else seemed concerned) and were on our way to Vista Verde, not quite sure what to expect from our upcoming week at the ranch.

When we approached the long, gravel driveway to the ranch, Sam was sitting on her horse, waiting to greet us with a warm, western welcome.  Next, Devyn gave us a tour of the ranch while our luggage was brought to our cabin, and then we were instructed to head to the barn, where Sam and K.P. were waiting to fit us for our saddles and assign us our horses.  My husband, son and I felt apprehensive.  Horses were not our thing.  But K.P. and Sam assured us we would be assigned to gentle horses, and they were right.  Our first morning orientation ride was virtually painless, as the well-behaved horses took us on a winding ride through the ranch's mountains and fields. 

But here is the beauty of Vista Verde, and the reason why it worked so well for our family.  If you love horses, you will get your own horse to ride to your heart's content all week.  You can even learn how to herd cattle on your horse!  But if you don't love horses, there is equal emphasis placed on hiking, mountain biking and fly fishing, and the guides for all activities are truly remarkable.  I loved my hikes guided by Stephanie, Kelly and Rachel.  We walked past wildflowers and aspens to waterfalls and lakes.  We talked, which may not sound like a big deal except my husband prefers to silently hike as fast as possible to our destination, and I like to chat while I hike, and stop for a snack on a rock with a view.  Vista Verde's guides and guests made for outstanding hiking partners!

In addition to a multitude of on-site activities, the ranch includes off-site adventures such as white water rafting and rock climbing in the cost.  The food is incredibly good, and the kitchen caters to all food allergies.  The cabins are roomy and well-appointed, and our kids loved that each evening the housekeepers would hide a stuffed moose somewhere in the cabin.  When the kids discovered the moose, they found their bedtime snack.  Even more, they loved the private hot tub on our deck overlooking the mountains (and Type A Mom loved that the hot tub was spotlessly clean).

But the real value of a ranch week at Vista Verde is the people.  The staff claims it is treated as well as the guests, which might partially explain why every employee just seems so darn happy to be there.  Vista Verde also must do an excellent job screening its potential hires, as every staff member is comfortable joining guests at the dining table and engaging them in conversation in an easy, natural way.  In all of my years of travel, I have never encountered a staff so attentive and service-oriented, yet so genuinely friendly and interested in their work.  The guides don't even make it look like work - you feel like you are out on a hike or do-si-do-ing at the barn dance with a friend.  A thoughtful, knowledgeable, affable friend, who takes photos of you and your family throughout your stay so you don't need to carry your camera!

And speaking of friends, you'll make them among the other guests, too.  The first evening can feel a little bit like a middle school dance, when the families first come together at "Happy Half-Hour" to meet and greet.  But even though you can choose to eat, ride, hike, bike or fish with just your family, you will find yourself making fast friends with the other families staying at the ranch.  And for the kids and teens, they have a space to call their own.  The kids club and teen club are open all day, and each runs its own activities such as gold panning, zip lining, rodeos, pool parties, paddle boarding, and even a ride in the back of an old-fashioned fire truck to get ice-cream.  I tried several times to convince my children to do a family hike or bike ride, but they were adamant that they couldn't miss any of the kids club activities.  The ranch is well-aware, though, that parents want some family time, and ensures that families have the option to eat together during all meal times, arranges a mandatory family dinner night in case your children opted not to eat with you during other meals, and organizes the breakfast and steak dinner rides so that families ride together.

One afternoon, we finally convinced my son (who by Tuesday of our ranch week had declared that he now loved riding horses, too) to skip the kids' club "fun with the foals" activity and go mountain biking with his parents.  Steve, the main mountain biking guide, has painstakingly created a terrain park on ranch property to teach guests how to tackle obstacles on their mountain bikes.  My husband and I were given state-of-the-art, perfectly maintained mountain bikes, and my eight-year-old declared that his bike was "way cooler" than the one he has at home.  Steve took us on a ride along ranch roads to the field where he had set up logs, poles, ramps and bridges.  With 100% of his focus on our son, Steve explained how to approach each obstacle, and how to ride through it.  He placed his hand on the back of our son's bike, and off they went, up over ramps, across narrow bridges and down the other side.  Steve gave our son constant encouragement and positive support - like the perfect coach you hope your child gets next soccer season. 

On our way back to the ranch, Steve stopped to show my son what was inside his pack.  He described the training each Vista Verde guide has to endure, and explained how each item in his pack was designed to keep guests safe and comfortable in the event of an emergency, until help arrived.  Our son was thrilled that Steve let him practice starting a fire for warmth.  At the end of our ride, we got to try some single track mountain biking, which our son loved.  He declared it was his favorite activity of the week (see, sometimes leaving the kids club and hanging out with your parents is fun!  Well, okay, it was probably because Steve was there).

On our last evening, we rode our horses out to a field set up with outdoor grills and picnic tables covered with blue-and-white checked tablecloths.  (If you don't want to ride, the staff will take you to the dinner in the chuckwagon or SUV.)  The staff grilled delicious steaks, succulent trout and juicy burgers for our dinner.  The kids played games with the kids' wranglers.  Parents chatted and enjoyed the beautiful mountain views and cool evening air.  After we returned to the ranch, General Manager Ben announced that the horses would be run out to pasture for the night, and we were welcome to watch.  "What's the big deal?" I thought, still not a fan of horses even after our perfect ranch week.  But I followed the other guests to the wooden split rail fence separating the road from the main lodge's outdoor terrace.  All of the guests with the exception of our family and one other family were repeat guests.  Some had been coming to Vista Verde every summer for the past fifteen years.  Yet all had their cameras out, hanging over the fence, waiting.  Then the horses came.  About 100 galloping horses running right past us, kicking up dust from the road, with a mountain backdrop behind them and the sun sitting low in the sky like a movie set.  And then I got it - it was breathtaking, even for someone not so interested in horses.  Watching these gorgeous animals run, free of riders for the evening, with green pastures to look forward to all night long.

Logistics:

Steamboat Springs:

How to get to Steamboat Springs:  You can fly directly into Steamboat, and the airport is called Yampa Valley.  Or, you can fly to Denver and drive 3-4 hours to Steamboat.

Where to stay:  We spent the first night in a Hampton Inn, which was acceptable but nothing special.  The Hampton Inn is not walking distance to town.

Where to eat:  In Steamboat, we had a spectacular breakfast at Creekside Café, which also serves lunch.  My husband loved his Mexican lunch at Vaqueros. Vista Verde's guides also recommend these Steamboat Springs restaurants:  For burritos, head to Azteca.  For a nice dinner, try bistro c.v., E3 Chophouse, or Café Diva at the top of the gondola.

What to do:  We enjoyed the rodeo experience in Steamboat.  Click here for more information.  Note that although the rodeo's website lists only places to buy tickets in advance in person, you can buy them online by clicking here.  We also loved the Howler Alpine Slide and ski jump ride, which are located side by side. 

There are two hot springs in the Steamboat area.  The more commercial one is located right downtown, and there are water slides for the kids.  We opted for Strawberry Park, about a 20-minute drive outside of town, because of its lovely, natural setting.

In early summer, you can also do river rafting right in town on the Yampa River.  Bucking Rainbow, located on Steamboat's main drag, will book trips for you, and in late summer will rent you an inner tube to float down on your own.  The water level was so low in August that we opted against tubing.  There is a pretty path by the river that you can walk on either side.  You can also take the gondola up to the top of the ski mountain, have a meal, and hike down.  A popular hike near town is Fish Creek Falls, which we would have liked to do but didn't have time.

If you drive into Steamboat, you'll see F.M. Light & Sons's yellow signs all along the highway.  The store's advertising worked on us, and we bought our kids each a pair of cowboy/cowgirl boots for their ranch week (and for their Halloween costumes back east!).

Vista Verde Ranch:

www.vistaverde.com

How to get to Vista Verde:  Vista Verde is about a half an hour from the tiny airport in Steamboat Springs called Yampa Valley.  You won't need a car at Vista Verde, so if you are using frequent flyer miles or cost isn't a concern, fly into Steamboat.  To save money, fly into Denver.  We rented a car and drove about 4 hours to Steamboat, spending our first night in town so we could enjoy the rodeo that takes place every Friday evening in Steamboat in summertime (see above).  We drove out to the ranch the following day, which takes 45 minutes.

When to go:  Vista Verde is open to guests for winter activities from mid-December to late March.  Families with children are welcome during that time period in December and from mid-February through March.  January and early February are reserved for adults only.  In winter, only a three-night minimum applies.  For summertime fun, families with children are welcome from late May/early June through the third week in August.  From the last week of August through mid-October, only adults are permitted at the ranch.  In summer, a weeklong stay is required.  There are so many wonderful activities to enjoy that you will want to be at the ranch for at least a week!

Where to eat:  At the ranch, all meals are included and delicious!

Where to stay:  Our week at Vista Verde was fabulous.  Our wonderful cabin had three bedrooms, two bathrooms, and living room and kitchenette.  The mini-refrigerator is stocked with complimentary drinks for guests, and on the kitchen table sits a basket with home made granola and packets of Ghiradelli hot chocolate.  In mid-late August, daytime temperatures were in the 70's and 80's, but cooled off enough at night so that we had to close our windows to stay warm.

The ranch is all-inclusive, meaning that all meals, drinks and activities (with a few exceptions) are included in the price.  Spa services cost extra.  Each evening, Beka will find you at "Happy Half-Hour" or to ask you what you would like to do the next day.  You can choose any activity you want, and do it for as short or long as you would like.  You can join a group of others, or go it alone with a guide.  You can change your mind the next morning and switch activities.  The staff is completely accommodating in a way I've never experienced, anywhere.  And the guides are truly outstanding.

I loved my half-day hikes with guides Stephanie, Kelly and Rachel, as well as a mountain biking trip with my husband and Rachel.  My husband learned how to fly fish with Goose, who has led two U.S. Presidents on fly fishing trips.  One morning, I went along and sat by the river, listening to the rushing water and reading my book in the chair that Goose brought along for me.  Paddleboarding on a nearby lake was peaceful and relaxing.  Our afternoon biking with our son and Steve was a highlight, as was our morning rock-climbing with our family and a group of others from the ranch.  I rode horses only three times - and two of those involved riding to a fabulous meal cooked on outdoor grills and served in the outdoors with beautiful views.  But out of all of my horseback riding experiences (my daughter has made me go on a few), my Vista Verde rides were the best because the guides were so attentive and instructive, and ensured I had a gentle horse.

The kids and teen clubs are also included.  The younger guests all loved the kids club, and my children are begging me to return to Vista Verde because of the fun wranglers and amazing activities they plan.  The week we were at Vista Verde, the teens shunned the club, but I was told that the prior week, a group of ten teens bonded for the week, going camping overnight together and enjoying a multitude of activities.  One thirteen-year-old girl joined the kids club during our week because she "wanted to have fun and teens don't know how to have fun," so the ranch is flexible!

In the evenings, the ranch offers fun activities such as family games on the lawn, music and theater performed by the extremely talented staff, and - my personal favorite - a barn dance.  I didn't know I loved line dancing, but I find myself back on the east coast, wishing I'd bought a pair of cowgirl boots and contemplating going to country and western night at the local tavern.  Hmmm...not sure it would live up to Vista Verde's barn dance.

Meals are relaxed in dress code, but range from casual to formal with respect to cuisine. Guests always have the option to sit with their families, but often the kids want to sit with their new friends and the parents congregate to enjoy dinner, wine and laughter.  The food is very good, and we enjoyed all of our meals.  My favorite meal was probably the breakfast ride, where we rode our horses to an old log cabin, outside of which were picnic tables, a campfire and a platter of egg, bacon and cheese on croissants.  The kids loved the lemon soufflé pancakes with blueberry syrup.  My husband loved the barbecue lunch, and his bison steak at dinner.  And every guest loves the ranch's bacon.  Although I've never eaten so much meat in one week, the lunchtime buffet always a substantial salad bar.  And in between meals, there are always freshly baked cookies and seasonal fruit out in the main building for snacking. 

When I was reading dude ranch reviews, I discovered that guests are completely loyal to their ranch.  Everyone seems to love whichever ranch he or she chose, raving about the setting, guides, food and activities.  I count myself among those guests, and now can't imagine visiting any other ranch but Vista Verde.  So will I join the vast majority of Vista Verde's guests and return for another stay?  On my hike with Kelly, I learned about all of the amazing winter activities at the ranch.  On my next trip, I want to return to Vista Verde and try backcountry skiing, snowmobiling and dog sledding!  But my children's weekly pleas to return to Vista Verde for another summer ranch week may just work.

Colorado Springs:

So after our ranch week, we visited our friends, Jenn & Dave, who live in Colorado Springs.  We had such a fun time there, that I thought I'd share what I learned.

How to get to Colorado Springs:  The city has an airport, but we drove five hours from Vista Verde to reach the city, stopping in Breckenridge for lunch on the way.  It was a beautiful drive, and about two hours to get to the airport in Denver at the end of our stay.

What to do:  You must visit Garden of the Gods, which consists of amazing red rocks in various formations that you can explore.  The park is truly beautiful, and our kids loved it.  Fans of the Olympic Games, we also loved our visit to the Olympic Training Center.  We got to see athletes training, and the amazing facilities.  Our friends took us up the cog railway to the top of Pikes Peak, and we spent two days hiking down, spending the night at Barr Camp along the way.  The hike was amazing, fun, beautiful and we are so glad we did it.  We barely slept at Barr Camp due to altitude and a snoring cabin mate, and we could barely walk for about three days following the hike.  But it was worth it!  If you are in better shape than we are - and I mean much better shape - you can attempt The Manitou Incline in Manitou Springs, which climbs 2000 vertical feet in a mile long staircase (without railings).  Even more death-defying, try walking down!

Where to stay and eat:  We had fabulous accommodations and meals at Jenn & Dave's house, but if you're not friends with them or anyone else in Colorado Springs, try The Broadmoor, a five-star resort.  Our thirteen-mile hike down Pikes Peak was followed by a delicious lunch at Adam's Mountain Café in Manitou Springs, which has freshly squeezed juices and home made inventive, healthy dishes.